Wet and windy

 Today, our last day in Christchurch is wet and windy so after doing our washing at the laundromat we decided to take a bus to the Port at Lyttleton to have a look - and lunch. By the time we got there it was such unpleasant weather that we stayed on the bus and headed straight back to town.  Yvonne had her nails done, I read my book and we repacked bags ready for setting off tomorrow on the bike tour.  Quick drink in the (enclosed) rooftop bar here, a look at the news and we headed across the intersection to dinner at a place a bit like a night market. Delicious South American food was our choice.  No photos so here are some of the street artworks we have seen.

Christchurch Museum

The Museum is about to close for five years while undergoing extensive redesign and renovation internally. As a last hurrah Street artists were invited to use a number of spaces so off we went to have a look.

Finally made it to NZ

This trip was first planned, and booked, pre-Covid and at last Yvonne and I are here. We have had a very pleasing couple of days in Christchurch with one more to come before we head off on the bike trip.  On a beautiful sunny Sunday we took  a bus trip to Akoroa, a harbourside town settled by both French and English in adjoining sections. 

En route to Akoroa

Monday was spent on a walking tour of the City, a very informative walk led by Milton, a volunteer local, followed by a trip to the Museum and the Art Gallery.  So much is still being repaired and restored after the earthquake 12 years ago but the City is certainly common back to life. The dance floor is a "gap filler" where a building was demolished and was installed as an antidote to stress and anxiety 

Rain and leeches

Don't worry.. no photos of leeches.

Quite a bit of rain overnight but we remain hopeful that it won't be so naff during the day. Our can be tricky to forecast apparently add the are so many areas which have micro climates.  Also we are a bit remote,  a bit out of town for detailed information from the weather bureau.

The ride today is a loop ride through a rainforest area on the Errinundra plateau.  The trees and other flora are beautiful.  There are some pretty special species up here. Peter, one of our riders, is very familiar with the forest and takes us off the road to have a look at a Mountain Plum Pine which is probably around 1000 years old.  Though it looks pretty nondescript we are suitably impressed. We're are in the only area where our grows to tree height.

Another regional plant is the Gippsland Waratah, a stunning crimson coloured flower, and there are plenty to see as each tree flowers prolifically.  Great splashes of colour among the green.

The track we are riding along is wet, slippery in part rolling through the park.
It takes some concentration.  One stretch is closed to cars and consists of two wheel tracks through the forest - beautiful.

Each time we stop we search each other for leeches which seen to be falling more heavily than the rain.  I have never seen so many,  it seems they are coming from everywhere,  getting into people's socks,  up sleeves, wherever they can. Ugh, bring it the salt.

I set off after lunch but after a while decide to cut my ride short as my brakes are wet and muddy and I don't fancy sliding on a bit of track unable to stop.  I was thinking downhill when I felt as if I had no brakes needing to put my feet down to actually stop.  Not a good prospect so stopped riding. Back to the hotel to clean off the mud, grit, blood.

Hills and scenery

It's going to be hot today,  and turns out to be humid as well. We're starting in farming country, moving to Alpine Park forests areas and crossing into the much drier Deddick Valley along a long downhill.  Of course that means up first but it's worth it.
Our first diversion is a short walk to Little River Falls, a very pretty run of falls with a bit of water in it. It is easy to imagine it would be magnificent after a heavy rain, Rain would be welcome here as the area is in drought .

Little River Falls

Leaving them the road is uphill  in fact it is beginning to feel that today the only way is up but there is of course some down. 

The McKillops Bridge is our lunch stop  after another short detour to walk to a magnificent lookout across the valley we are heading into.  Looking across you can see the change in vegetation on the drier rain shadow side. 

The bridge was built in 1935, to replace the original built in 1932. That bridge was built to withstand flood, based on records of past floods.  11 days before our was to open a flood 3metres higher than any recorded flood hit the bridge and demolished it. 

Of course as rivers lie at the bottom of valleys they form we ride up above it, rewarded by a long and wonderful downhill along a narrow road.  We're headed along the Delegate River to end our ride at the Ambyne Suspension Bridge which no longer carries traffic but was restored about 12 years ago as a prime example of this style bridge.

Back into the bus and off to Delegate where I can stay that the Delegate Hotel had s very pleasant verandah on which to enjoy a pre dinner drink

How do you say Gelantipy?

You can look that up if you want to but pretty well everyone gets it wrong.  We just went with the flow. And we drove here in a bus this morning before setting off uphill you will be surprised to hear.  The result was a wonderful plateau ride with just the sort of views you can imagine. We stopped for a picnic lunch looking across the Snowy River Valley to the hills on the other side.  Picture perfect.

At the end of our ride we had a walk to enjoy the view from Tulloch Ard Gorge. Magnificent overlooking the Snowy.

Tonight we are staying in a school camp and adventure camp which tomorrow will fill up with schoolchildren.  In the meantime I am relieved to hear that there is a beer available in the main dining room.  So that's that on  this warm spring day.

Off on another ride

Arrived in Orbost Friday night prior to starting a small group ride on Sunday.  The tour heads up into the high country and we anticipate a hill or two.
The weather today,  Saturday,  is sunny and clear so after a very  leisurely breakfast in town and taking the local shops Diane and I rode over to Marlo. Marlo is a tiny coastal village which is a popular tourist destination in summer. 

The local pub has a marvellous upstairs verandah from which we enjoyed the views right up until we saw an inebriated naked young man riding around on Diane's new mountain bike.  Idiot!
Naturally we raised our voices ordering him off the bike.  He did so.  Trish,  who had driven over to join us,  and I insisted that Diane should at least rinse the seat before getting on. 
With a tail wind taking us back to Orbost alongside the Snowy River all in all it was a top afternoon on a beautiful sunny day.
Tomorrow we meet our fellow travellers and guides and head for the hills

Moustiers to Castelanne June 23, penultimate day

If you thought we had climbed enough,  think again. This is going to be a long day with plenty of climbing so up and at it as fast as we can. We rose a further 700m before coffee . Up and up, through a couple of arches along the left side of the Gorge du Verdon. The gorge is known as the Grand Canyon of France, with good reason.  It is spectacular and the view from the coffee cafe stop well worth it.  It is called the cafe de Grand Canyon and we sit on the terrace overlooking the river about 400m below.  Fortunately Tom is there with the van as the cafe will not refill our water bottles as they say the water is not good for drinking.  One wonders what they use for the coffee, which tastes all right. The place is known for the surly service so we knew it was coming.  The woman who had been begrudging did raise a short of smile as I paid her. It was fairly shortlived as I waited patiently for my 20c change. Onwards. .. through the tunnel and down.
Just as we get to the tunnel emergency services arrive to treat a cyclist, not one of ours,  who had come down in the tunnel. He was traveling with a couple of friends following the same route over a few less days and one of the party had ridden with our tour company,  Skedaddle,  in the past.  The cyclist had concussion and was taken to hospital to check for any more serious damage.  Interestingly the group had elected not to wear their helmets.  It is not a legal requirement in France but they will wear them from now on they say.  Lucky for them too that Tom and the van at at the front of the cars held up,  and has enough room in the van to be able to take the injured cyclist's machine to Nice for him.
Lunch is by the road again,  and the remainder of the day fairly flat along the river.  Not far on from lunch I am regretting going on in the heat and stop for a rest, sitting on a pile of stones by the road with my head in my hands telling Anna to go on and I'll just sit there by the road until Tom comes by with the van. She does a very good imitation of me.  On the day Anna encouraged me to rest a bit,  have plenty to drink,  have one of her power shot jellies and give it another go.  I'm not sure what was in it but I must say it did the trick.  I made it into Castellane.
Interesting turn of events there as the hotel we were booked into had,  without any reference to the Skedaddle Office,  moved us to another hotel just across the square as they "had a big group in". The new place had a lovely garden where we say and had a couple of beers allowing the day to cool off a bit. A few people told us the rooms were hot, with no air conditioning so I was not looking forward to it.  Nicely refreshed it was a treat to discover that my room was not hot,  that it was clean and comfortable and had a bath.  I recovered nicely before heading out to join a few others over the square for an ice cream, beer or similar which Skedaddle bought us to make up for the confusion.  Not a bad result.

Peyruis to Moustiers-Saint-Marie June 22

Quite a climb this morning after a quick run along the river,  up into the hills and high lavender fields. I shall be watching for bees having already been stung once the other day.  It is not pleasant,  I have recovered well with no lasting effects so that's that.
The lavender is wonderful,  and this time for the most part in full bloom.  

Several people,  on bikes,  in cars,  on foot,  stop to photograph it.  Some walk into the crop and one lot picked quite a bunch.  You wonder if they'd do the same if it was wheat or barley. .I doubt it.
Coffee in Valperole, lavender capital of Provence .. so much purple everywhere. Sailing downhill out of Valperole I stop briefly at a farmer's roadside stall to buy a small bottle of lavender oil. It fits neatly into my pocket and as long as I don't crash and smash it all will be well.
Today is a short day, but a strenuous ride, more uphill, more downhill with a final stretch up into the beautiful tourist town of Moustiers-Saint-Marie.  Lunch today is a real sit down affair at a restaurant - delicous with a cold beer, then check in and shower.  A walk around town through all the ceramics shops for which Moustiers is known,  and the ceramics museum which is lovely ... and cool.  More walking,  must be time for a swim in the hotel pool.

Dinner on a terrace is a must in warm Moustiers with a stroll back to bed.  After sharing a room with Anna for the last two and a half weeks I am on my own. It seems a little weird. Anna's husband Ian has arrived to follow the ride's last few days by car. Ian had driven some of the route and marvels at our hill climbing prowess .. and rightly so.  This does not do justice to the hills,  but gives you an idea of how steep it is in town. 

Sault to Peyruis

Thank goodness the Tour de France is going along our route in July because the road has been resurfaced and is perfect for riding on, smooth and fast.  This is a short day so a few more have tackled Mont Ventoux this morning heading up straight after breakfast. Another hot day forecast.
Morning coffee stop is in Banon, home to the seventh largest book store in France.  It is a good looking building and a rabbit warren of books inside - or so i am told as i did not go in.

I did go in to a local artisan boulangerie and enjoyed a very good quiche lorraine, and on a whim broke my own rule and bought a bag which reads "Bon comme un bon pain". I am grateful to Eli who very generously carries it for me to our destination. I definitely owe him a large beer when we get in.

We are now passing fields of lavender,  mostly in bud about to flower and are hopeful of flowers in bloom over the next few days.


Our ride ends with a beautiful descent en route to Peyruis with lunch by the side of the road justt near a hairpin bend which gives passers by a golden opportunity to gawk at us.  We are obviously enjoying ourselves as is our wont.

Today's hotel has two swimming pools .. we only use one.  Dinner has a lot of vegetables .. and pasta .. and salad so we really enjoy it.  Just about the best yet.  Vegetables and salads have not always been easy to come by.

Roadway encouragement

Fun on the road

Chateauneuf-du-Pape to Sault

There is nothing like a good rest for encouraging one to get back on the bike and off down the road again. Added to that is the prospect of a shorter day, even with the ride up what appears to be the inevitable gorge ... Gorge de la Nesque this time.  Discussion at the al fresco breakfast centres around who will, who might, and who has decided against riding Mont Ventoux. Our guides are going of course. Some may go this afternoon,  some may go in the morning. Either way there will be hot riding weather along the way and I am not coping well with that so I dip out.
The ride up and through the gorge is spectacular, with amazing vistas going on and on into the distance.  A wonderful ride.
And then we arrive at Sault where our host Antoine gives us a very warm welcome. Tons of riders, drivers and the occasional bus travel from Sault to the peak of Mont Ventoux which means Alex spends quite a bit of time hunting about for a parking spot before he can set up our lunch. Lunch was worth the wait as usual.
During the afternoon I say in the square outside our hotel and enjoyed a quiet nap in my chair,  waking to enjoy a beer with some of my fellow riders and cheer the arrival of our MtV  conquerors.  Dinner was also served in the square by our host,  now Chef Antoine,  delicious slow cooked beef followed by a desert cake made especially for our group. I thought i had a photo of it but cannot find it.  Damn

View up the Gorge de la Nesque

Not quite Van Gogh

Vallon Pont dArc to Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Took a long time to get here, but it is a beautiful place, and last nightnwe dined al fresco which is becoming a delightful habit. The weather continues unseasonably hot, though I  expect that it is actually the new seasonal weather and we will all have to admit it soon.
The third day with a substantial hill, this one at the start of the day up up and through the outstanding Gorges d'Ardeche.  Photographs don't always do justice to the realmthing, but I'll put one or two in.  At the top the ride along the ridge before the amazing descent is spectacular. 
Down we go to greet the Rhone, and our first sighting of the famous Mont Ventou.  Our ride over then next couple of days allow time for those so inclined to ride the Mont but I  am not so inclined in the heat.  In fact I  cut mynride short today, i think it is the cumulative effect of the last couple of days catching up and so I  get a lift into our destination. It is only 15, but the prospect of riding in no shade even that short way fills me with dread. All I want is a shower and a lie down.
Sadly for my host at the hotel I am not thrilled to discover that we have been given a king bed in lieu of twin beds,  and less thrilled when he seems to think that it isn't a problem that they have no twin room left.  It is not his suggestion but mine that the two beds forming the King be separated and they start again. In the end I state just bring us two sheets and we will sort it. Not an auspicious start. I sit by the pool and sleep instead.  The delicious meal served al fresco somewhat makes up for it and the delicious red at dinner. And the good breakfast also al fresco ... but his superior attitude still rankles a bit. It will in due course fade into the blur of good times.

The arc that gives Vallon Pont d'Arc its name

Gorgeous gorges

The Rhone

Estragyues to Mende, Mende to Vallon Pont d'Arc

These days are the toughest on the ride,  long rides (each over 120km) and uphill all the way.  I have to admit to a beautiful descent at the end of the second day but tough work to get there. 
The first day,  the third hill is a climb up the hill from Marvejols which is a killer.  At the top is a sign advising anyone going down that there are 3km at 10% gradient.  Knowing that is the mean, based on figures below and above that you get the picture. Steep. The road is covered with painted encouragement for former racers. ... Courage mon ❤, etc  One at the beginning reads 'Bienvenu a infer', Welcome to hell.
So here's a story from the road instead ...  it comes from a chapel we passed by a river.

Figeac to Estraygnues

Today was a wonderful ride. Up straight away from town into a high ridge ride, descent, up again over another hill with a glorious descent to the Lot River valley. We are going to follow the river for the rest of the day. The day is short, lunch will be by the river at our destination. It is the lull before the storm of the the next couple of days which have big climbs in them. That in itself is not a problem, it is the combination of hill and heat. I have harped on enough about the tour organiser not wanting to start the day early so will refrain from complaining again.
Riding by the river is relaxing, no rush to get anywhere, just enjoying the ride with coffee in a small town made in a machine one step up from those in the hotel breakfast rooms. The surroundings and shared experience make the quality of the coffee a lesser consideration - or I am getting used to bad coffee. Uh Oh , but I know it will all change with one good piccolo or flat white.  We come into town by the confluence of the Lot and Truyere rivers heading across the 13th century bridge tomour riverside lunch and hotel.
It is like a second rest day, this time by the pool.  I sat down in our room to do a couple of things before having a shower and immediately fell asleep.. I am well versed in resting. I woke, cleaned the road off and did my washing and headed poolside. 

Sarlat to Figeac, June15

This was a good riding day, but bit too hot and not quite enough shade towards the end.  Great climb in the morning, after riding alongside the Dordogne for a while, up to Rocamadour and a fantastic view .
Rolling hills along the ridge through farming lands, some pasture, some crops, and some forested stretches.  All this until lunch which was followed by one last hill up and over down into Figeac.
Rooftop pool was too hot to swim in, so a stroll to an outdoor restaurant was enough then an early night.  Good night 

The view from Rocomadour

La Vigeant to Brantome

Turn left out the hotel gate and go straight up that hill...what a heart starter. The forecast is another very warm day and the briefing indicates some hills coming up.  In fact, the day is pretty well all hills, not too steep but a couple of short sharp shocks and of course some good descents.
We will be passing the turn off to a meteorite crater today. I do mean passing as it would mean adding just a few kilometres over the daily total. I have already added a few Km by missing the morning coffee stop and in spite of already being at the top of the hill out of town I turn back to join my pals, have cofee and strawberry tart. I found out later that some others were refused the tart, perhaps I looked more deserving.

Back to the crater, though it is very wide it is just about completely eroded now I hear, so I settle for seeing the rock used in local construction.  When the meteorite hit it completely changed the rock surrounding the crater so it is a unique and therefore quite distinctive rock which somewhat resembles lava I saw in Oregon a couple of yeara back.

Arriving at the top of the hill for the second time, I am again struck by the spectacular panorama of farming scenery to the left including what I always think of as an Australian windmill. I know they are used elsewhere but it is from rural Australia that I know and love them.
Onwards, ever onwards... to Brantome. Built on an island the oldest part of town is delightful to walk through which we do on our way to dinner. It is a convenient way to check out the riverside restaurants and decide which of those open (it's Monday and several are not) is worthy of our custom. The preferred one seems reluctant to let us onto the terrace but as we three are willing to sit in the back corner we are welcomed at last. Fortunately for us very few patrons require the convenience at our backs and so we enjoy a delicious meal, cool and comfortable and with a lovely view.

Team photo

Just another chateau

Parthenay to Le Vigeant

Well, I know I wrote this day up and it seems to have completely disappeared.  let's see if i can remember it.
Parthenay was a pilgrim town and as we are on a classic riding journey we are perhaps pilgrims of sorts. Today's trip is very up and dow, rolling hills through farmland where the crops are in various stages. We see sunflowers planted and not yet anywhere near budding, let alone flowering. Barley seems to be the most common grain in the area, but we alsompass theough vegetable fields aplenty.
It a as a steady day of riding with a cafe stop late morning andna wayside lunch leaving us anshort 30km or so to get into the next overnight stop on the banks of the River Vienne.  This hotel is wonderful, motel type units so no stairs to lug bags up, a good swimming pool, sunny garden to dry washing and a good dinner to look forward to.
Having time to sit and read in the garden after a swim is a luxury for those of us who are usually well behind the riders who go very fast - that is those of us who make up the second sitting at lunch.  Naturally I am in the latter.  We all enjoy ourselves,  operating at our own pace.  I still wish we could get out earlier but there always seems to be a reason to do with the logistics have worked like this before.  Yes,  but was it so hot?  Ah well. .... the country is beautiful and the company good.

Late start

Breakfast and the briefing started the day at the usual time,  but a shorter day's ride allows time to see the Abbey next to the hotel.  Wow, it is wonderful. The cavernous spaces, the buildings, the gardens, everything.  There is enough on Wikipedia and travel advisor so I am not giving you the travelogue version here.  A highlight for us was coming across the audio setup for something, probably a wedding,  in a rear garden. The sound set to reflect from the abbey walls filled the space with a wonderful sound. Our hour long visit was certainly not enough, but the road calls.
A shorter ride is welcome after the first few days, but it still seems a longish way to coffee..will the cafe have shut for the lunch break? No, phew - and  there is shade. Good double, and as I enter fellow cyclists are ordering coffee in not bad French when the barman suddenly say in perfect English 'Would you mind closing the door behind you'. It is an absurdist moment as we go ahead mixing my poor French with his excellent English. Then an Englishwoman comes through another door and buys some coke. Stop this fun, get to lunch before sundown.
The best thing about the picnic lunches is the way the riders egg the guides on to top the previous day's picnic.  Alex and Tom alternate driving the van and getting lunch with riding each day.  They also excel at finding shady places, usually with trees, to dine under. Admittedly, they have been here before and there are notes but we appreciate it as if it were just for us and brand new.
On the road again, still long stretches mostly with little traffic. The scenery continues fine, the weather getting warmer. We areive in the former pilgrim town Parthenay to the least attractive hotel building so far, but the bed feels comfortable and their is air-conditioning so we can close the windows to shut out the noise of the city square below. It is not unpleasant noise of people enjoying themselves but sleep m is paramount.  The hotel does have an amusing sign on the door...

Loire Day

The Loire, conjuring images of rolling vineyards interspersed with Chateaux by the dozen. .. and today is the day.  We are going to ride along the river for most of the day moving closer then away until we end up in Fontevraud l'Abbaye for the night.
There is a great air of anticipation ,tempered a little by the long straight road ahead and the also anticipated heat of the day. Our riding takes us through farming land and woodlands and villages with historic churches and chateaux in sight, glimpsed through woods or not seen at all. A string of villages along the river proudly proclaim they are "sans pesticides". Good for them.
Great treat today at the cafe in Brissace-Quincé when I asked for a Cafe Crema (a double espresso with hot milk on the side) only to be asked if I  wanted a flat white or latte! Not only was it a good flat white but it had art on the top. Quelle surprise - you see how well I  speak the local language now.
We have a plan for lunch, by the local mushroom museum.  Wow. There are hundreds and hundreds of mushroom samples encased in resin and lots of information about the edible and the toxic ones, which I  won't remember. As I don't often go mushrooming I am reliant on my local supplier to have that sorted. Deeper and deeper into the cave I go, observing various methods of growing mushrooms. There are trays of experimental cultures and dozens of rectanular hangers resembling bird feeders in the Salle des Shitakes. Some of the 'shrooms are decidedly weird and it is cold down there (40Farenheit) so back to the warmth and the bike.
At the end of the ride our hotel is lovely,  right next to the Abbey that gives the town its name. It is too late to see it but tomorrow is a shorter ride so perhaps in the morning.  Roses abound and the scent is delightful - as it has been through several stretches of the ride.  Another day down,  another good beer,  a good dinner and a good sleep to look forward to. 

Long and straight

Today is a day of long straight flat roads through beautiful country and though it is a second day of headwinds it is not too hot, but warming up a bit. That is the Australian view, some others find it hotter.

Have I mentioned already that i am not a fan of flat riding? I like a bit of downhill , even if it means a bit of uphill, to give me a break from sitting in the saddle and pedalling. The countryside is beautiful  and the villages picturesque, though many surprisingly quiet, utterly devoid of people. No, it is not between noon and 2 so they are not all behind doors. The schools are full so the parents must be somewhere.

I do enjoy the boulangeries, patisseries and cafe bars where we are invited to bring our own food to their tables as they don't sell food. Good plan. Our planned picnic lunches have not yet eventuated due to the trouble with the van. Tom has delivered all our luggage to the night's destination then headed back to Saint Malo on the promise that the real van will be ready at the end of the day.

Almost at the end of our cycling day we come across the most wonderful chateau, the Chateau Plessis-mace.  The forecourt is being prepared for the Festival d'Anjou and the erected stage, seating and marquees mar the view but as it is closed to the public and we are allowed in we cannot complain really. It is a lovely almost end to the day. We rode the last few kilometres to the hotel,  grateful that we are on the ground floor and don't have to lug our bags upstairs - now that's a fitting end to a long ride.