I HAVE SHINGLES and I am ok

Oct 7.
This morning starts with a walk along the beach at dawn.

 Virginia Beach is a long Beach with many hotels overlooking it but not at our end. It is good to have a bit of a stretch before we leap in the car again.  I have been over some good bridges in my time but nothing like the 23 mile bridge-tunnel over Chesapeake Bay.  It is amazing.

Starts out as a very long bridge, dips underwater for a bit below a channel, more bridge, another tunnel, final section of bridge to land on the other side. WOW.

Today's ride will take us along the Eastern Shore with a look at some of the Barrier Islands,   It is very different terrain to the forested hills we have been in.
Over the bridge to Chinquoteague Island for lunch in one of the local seafood restaurants. Crab cake, advertised as including no filler, and it was right.

This island is famous for its wild horses which are rounded up each year and a number of them auctioned off as a way of maintaining the herd at sustainable levels.  It looks marvellous in the photographs of the muster but this year's is long gone so no chance of seeing it this trip.  Seeing the herd in the wild somewhat makes up for it.

It occurs to me as we drive along that the effect of the cluster of bites that have irritated me over the last couple of days sound familiar. They are similar to Mum's description of shingles. That worries me enough to seek medical advice. Sadly it is confirmed that the now rash, not bites, on my left side and a smaller area nearby are indeed shingles. My symptoms are low level,  not too painful, so a coupke of meds prescribed. That is a rude welcome to the system here - the first cost $5.80 , the second is quoted at $400.00!!! Fortunately the pharmacy assistant investigates generic supply and any discounts that may be applied and it is reduced to a mere $180.00. Insurance claim here I come.

No longer anxious I enjoy the rest of the day which ends with a car ferry crossing from Lewes to Cape May and a short drive to the romantically named Wildwoods. We enjoyed dinner at a bar on the wharf while waiting for the ferry to arrive at dusk. As is always the case with the ride at the end of the day we cannot see much on the water in the dark. Just glad to get to the hotel and out of the car for the day.

M2C Ride d3

A shorter ride today, all of about 2 miles to camp. Lauren and I called in to make sure we could get on the shuttle express the next day which we decided to have as a rest day. I was feeling decidedly blah, so when Chip said that would be fine and that we could if we wanted to get on today's shuttle.  I realised immediately that would be the better course. So we got on board and I promptly fell asleep.  Obviously a good decision.
I realised on arrival the disadvantage of getting to town ahead of my luggage ..  only had cycling shoes. Walked barefoot to downtown snd foud a very stylish pair of slip-ons at the first thrift shop we passed. So chic..

Lauren had researched the best coffee shop and that's where we went. It was not only the best coffee shop in Burlington but the best I  had been to for a month.  Oh joy, oh rapture. Burlington is the quietest town I had been in for a while, only a handful of people on the street. On asking if it was usually so quiet I  kearnt that it picks up towards lunchtime. I wondered if this is the effect of building huge shopping malls on the outskirts. They are soulless and you just about need a car to move from one end to the other (which we did one evening).

Another welcome ... our hotel room was ready so we could check in early. AND Lexington has Uber. I booked a massage as my back still giving me grief, not while I am riding or walking but when I sit for a while or lie down, particularly inconvenient at night. Uber to hotel, Uber to massage, Uber out again. 5 stars all.  How very handy it is.

After the massage I think my back feels better, I do anyway. A restful day getting washing done, dinner and an early night in preparation for rejoining the ride in the morning. Except  for one thing... everyone is starting to talk about Hurricane Matthew which looks almost certain to have an impact on the ride. Lots of talk about when it was cut short last time, and a great deal of speculation about when that call will be made. We can only wait and see.

M2C Ride d2

What can I say... another day with BIG climb early in the day.  Not surprisingly I am slow on the hills, I feel not much strength left in the old legs.  The minute there is an incline legs say "nooooo, not again".  Nothing for it but to wind down the gears and settle in for the long haul. The saving grace is riding through more beautiful countryside.  That and the low gears in the hub, thanks again Ewen.

Yesterday we climbed about 3800ft/1160m, today is less - 3500ft/1067m.  Well, that is a relief.  Shortlived though. Sometimes it is good halfway up a hill to just stop and take a photo of whatever is around. Never hurts to take a minute off.

There are 4 rest stops along the way, a highlight this day is the wonderful array of cakes and buscuits the local women have so lovingly made for us.

One steep pinch before the halfway mark and the rest are not too bad. Not quite enough downhill to roll uphill so plenty of work to be done.  Shyt up, kegs.
I have said it before and I will no doubt say it often, this is beautiful country.
We roll into Lexington, bathe, rest briefly and head downtown for dinner. The town has turned on a street concert and the recomnended cafe has opened on their night off just for the cyclists.  Good meal and very helpful staff.  This is very much appreciated by me when I  realise I have left my phone there.  I spoke to a wonderful woman who went to the trouble of asking round the remaining cyclists there where they were staying and found someone who agreed to bring the phone to our hotel. Boy, was I  glad not to go back out. I was amused to respond to the knock on the door and find a man on my phone stating he wanted to speak to their phone sex expert.  A good laugh all round and I  fell into bed and fast asleep. Phew.

M2C Ride d4

Today at breakfast the talk is all about the hurricane and the lack of any sms/email update from the ride organisers. Riders just want to know if there is a timeframe for a decision while acknowledging that it is still tricky to predict. Friend Mary B decides to return home to Gainsville where her sisters are headed from other more threatened parts of that state.  Lauren worries about the van being parked at the beach now under coastal flood watch. We will ride today but book a hire car to get the van tonight and head north.  Then during the afternoon the ride organisers offer a bus early the next morning to riders who need to go to their vehicles at the finish. We are on the list.

My legs are back, my back is all right and something has been biting me overnight.  I will be glad to feel completely myself at some time.  It is good to be back on the bike and no severe climbs today. Plenty of uphill work, some good downhill, a good day even if up outweighs down.  Time to just follow the road markers pointing the way.

6

Lunch today in Pittsboro where we are greeted by the Mayor. Another band here, seems to beno shortage of willing musos. I am particularly grateful when one of the women behind the table in the sandwich and coffee stall on seeing my disappointment that there is no tea to be had promptly offers to get me one from over the road. Iaccept with great pleasure. Top town. Then we were waved off by this mystical creature.

Going to sort out stuff tonight ready to get underway tomorrow ..

M2C Ride d5

It is really cheating to title this post as I have as we are riding the bus to retrieve the van and head north out of the projected Hurricane impact areas.  A longish ride with one quick contort stop, load gear and bikes in the van and we are away.. to get lunch.

We sometimes eat in one of the myriad chain restaurants that abound along the highway, often alongside a vast shopping malls.  They are not so bad as I paint the few we have in dear old Oz. We get fresh food,  soup, salad, sandwiches - not just burger and fries. When I do have burger and fries I do enjoy them.

 Late in the day we arrive at Leisa's house in Virginia Beach. It is book club night and the discussion is shared over a bowl of delicious soup. Their book this month is Q&A, on which the film Slumdog Millionaire is based. Of the four one read it to the end, one didn't get to it and the others had not completed it. This is not so much because of the book as it is the film which intrudes in the reader's memory.  That and time ... typical of any book club I've ever heard of.

Shortly after when someone mentioned another book all six around the table exclaimed with enthusiasm. Discussion was truncated when it transpired that not all had finished reading it yet but we all recommend it to you - All the Light We Cannot See, Anthony Doerr, Simon and Schuster, 2014. I thank Maureen Mitchell for recommending it to me.

Finished off the night with a lovely cup of teja and a homemade brownie. Good  finish.

ASHEVILLE

This is a very attractive town.  Took a while to drive here but worth it. It is a quite liberal artistic oasis in a more conservative region.  Fortunately  we have a local contact to direct us to a good coffee shop.

My experience, as a somewhat snobbish coffee drinker from the town that considers itself the coffee drinking capital of the world, is thatbthese are few and far between.  However Jen was right, Izzy's Coffee Den does good coffee.  I do quiz the barista about local definitions of latte, cafe au lait and others before placing my order. So far they are very tolerant of me.

Next on the agenda, a visit to various artist studios in the Riverside Arts precinct. For a district that quite obviously was closing down it is now a must see for tourists.  The former warehouses are now populated by a great variety of working local artists and artisans.  My favourite is the man who repairs and restores chairs .. chairs with wicker cane, rush and other woven seats.  They look great, and it is a treat to see the collection in his workshop.
And then there's 12 Bones, the local smokehouse which is a great place for lunch.  They have a big turnover shown by the length of the ordering queue and the cars in the parking lot.  This is one of the more interesting vehicles ..

It is International Coffee day, so that calls for a second cup of coffee, from another recommended venue, then down to the real business of the day. Lauren has a haircut appointment and I will be having my nails done with the usual dark red polish.  Leah, who does this, is great and very informative about life in Asheville.  She was raised in a rural area and left that for Asheville at the first real opportunity. She loves it here and I can see why.

Especially when we arrive at our final destination for the day. Two destinations really adjacent to each other. First the Grovewood Gallery where the best is reserved for last. This is a great gallery and I buy some souvenir earrings that catch my eye. Over to the Sunset Terrace of the Grove Park Inn to meet Jen - she of the good coffee advice - and to enjoy not only a spectacular view of the closing day but also some tapas and wine. A great end to our visit to Asheville (though we are spending another night here before heading out).