BUS, BUS, BUS

Our longest bus ride is ahead of us.  We are grateful to Milan for getting us an 0800 start instead of 0545. We travel in a private bus leaving Serbia,  entering Bosnia and over the range to Sarajevo.

This is a sheep slowly cooking over coals outside a restaurant, it smelt so delicious I can't begin to tell you. Very tempting.
 

Sarajevo,  as everyone knows  was besieged by Serbia for three and a half years and we see evidence of it in all the villages as we come into town.   Like Osijek a lot of the original buildings have been rebuilt and others psyched up.  We take a walk around town with local guide,  Mohammed,  who talks about the determination of the Sarajevans not to give in during the siege.  He was at school during the war and describes going to school in one of the larger shelters, where music and theatre performances also took place as part of a demonstration that life would go on as close to usual as possible. 

Life has improved,  but was hard for a long time. Bosnians have a dry sense of humour and are inclined to laugh in all circumstances,  even war. Mohammed regales us with stories that do make us laugh,  and I'm sorry I don't recall the jokes. We started our tour with s stop at the best burek seller in the town and finished the walk with a promise of more good food tomorrow when we will see him for the "Tour of Misfortunes".  We were taken to a delightful restaurant where I can assure you the stuffed eggplant and local beer were excellent. 

But wait,  there's more....  Best baklava shop in Sarajevo.  More varieties than I've seen at home,  never had a plum version but will again.  Not a dry pastry to be seen.  

Wall fresco with shell hole