WAR

Mohammed collects us after breakfast and we pile into the mini bus for the “Tour of Misfortunes". Misfortunes is an understatement. This morning we are touring war sites, and hearing more of life between 1992 and 1995. Riding in a minibus we pass buildings still pockmarked by shells, buildings waiting refurbishment, an old people's home building left as it is after being destroyed, the Holiday Inn and more.

Buildings that have been restored and rebuilt are also pointed out.  Life during the siege is ever present naturally in life here today - a physical and emotional presence.  Arriving at an ordinary house in the suburbs near the airport we are surprised to see a few tourist busloads ahead of us. The tunnel under the airport was the only way in and out of the city during the siege.  Hearing the background while looking at a map is like listening to a story with a large hole in the plot.  No one seems to know why exactly the Serbs agreed to give up the airport to the UN when they had encircled the town.

The story of the Tunnel of life, tunnel of hope, was a lifeline to the outside world. The Museum includes videos of newsreel footage during the siege and about the

tunnel construction and use, which show is construction and conditions in the wet which made it very risky as high voltage electricity lines ran through it after a while.   The Serbs knew about it but apparently never located it accurately.

As we return to the city itself Mohammed brings us back to the present and finished the tour up a road that he days gives the name 'Balkan Adventure' to our Intrepid tour.  A car comes towards us and we see for ourselves..  the road we are on is very narrow. Very. The view of the city from up there is worth it.

Coming down and after the tour is officially over,  Mohammed invited us to join him at the best place to have Cevapcici, and I don't need asking twice.  I love these little skinless sausages. They were the best I've had yet and we follow that up with a visit to the bar at the Sarajevo Brewery bar for a pint or two. Everywhere we go beer is taken seriously and food is delicious.. so when in Rome......

Rob and I saunter through the old town getting back to our pension in time for the cooking lesson - a hands on lesson in stuffing vegetables with a spiced meat and rice mixture.  We excel at this, and not long after we enjoy the fruits of the previous group's labour (a form of here's one I prepared earlier).

After dinner I repair to our room to catch up on some reading.  I thought about going for a walk but enjoyed the book so much I didn't.  I recommend it to you.. Robert Dinsdale's GINGERBREAD.