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Saturday, July 1, 2017

Moustiers to Castelanne June 23, penultimate day

If you thought we had climbed enough,  think again. This is going to be a long day with plenty of climbing so up and at it as fast as we can. We rose a further 700m before coffee . Up and up, through a couple of arches along the left side of the Gorge du Verdon. The gorge is known as the Grand Canyon of France, with good reason.  It is spectacular and the view from the coffee cafe stop well worth it.  It is called the cafe de Grand Canyon and we sit on the terrace overlooking the river about 400m below.  Fortunately Tom is there with the van as the cafe will not refill our water bottles as they say the water is not good for drinking.  One wonders what they use for the coffee, which tastes all right. The place is known for the surly service so we knew it was coming.  The woman who had been begrudging did raise a short of smile as I paid her. It was fairly shortlived as I waited patiently for my 20c change. Onwards. .. through the tunnel and down.
Just as we get to the tunnel emergency services arrive to treat a cyclist, not one of ours,  who had come down in the tunnel. He was traveling with a couple of friends following the same route over a few less days and one of the party had ridden with our tour company,  Skedaddle,  in the past.  The cyclist had concussion and was taken to hospital to check for any more serious damage.  Interestingly the group had elected not to wear their helmets.  It is not a legal requirement in France but they will wear them from now on they say.  Lucky for them too that Tom and the van at at the front of the cars held up,  and has enough room in the van to be able to take the injured cyclist's machine to Nice for him.
Lunch is by the road again,  and the remainder of the day fairly flat along the river.  Not far on from lunch I am regretting going on in the heat and stop for a rest, sitting on a pile of stones by the road with my head in my hands telling Anna to go on and I'll just sit there by the road until Tom comes by with the van. She does a very good imitation of me.  On the day Anna encouraged me to rest a bit,  have plenty to drink,  have one of her power shot jellies and give it another go.  I'm not sure what was in it but I must say it did the trick.  I made it into Castellane.
Interesting turn of events there as the hotel we were booked into had,  without any reference to the Skedaddle Office,  moved us to another hotel just across the square as they "had a big group in". The new place had a lovely garden where we say and had a couple of beers allowing the day to cool off a bit. A few people told us the rooms were hot, with no air conditioning so I was not looking forward to it.  Nicely refreshed it was a treat to discover that my room was not hot,  that it was clean and comfortable and had a bath.  I recovered nicely before heading out to join a few others over the square for an ice cream, beer or similar which Skedaddle bought us to make up for the confusion.  Not a bad result.


Peyruis to Moustiers-Saint-Marie June 22

Quite a climb this morning after a quick run along the river,  up into the hills and high lavender fields. I shall be watching for bees having already been stung once the other day.  It is not pleasant,  I have recovered well with no lasting effects so that's that.
The lavender is wonderful,  and this time for the most part in full bloom.  
Several people,  on bikes,  in cars,  on foot,  stop to photograph it.  Some walk into the crop and one lot picked quite a bunch.  You wonder if they'd do the same if it was wheat or barley. .I doubt it.
Coffee in Valperole, lavender capital of Provence .. so much purple everywhere. Sailing downhill out of Valperole I stop briefly at a farmer's roadside stall to buy a small bottle of lavender oil. It fits neatly into my pocket and as long as I don't crash and smash it all will be well.
Today is a short day, but a strenuous ride, more uphill, more downhill with a final stretch up into the beautiful tourist town of Moustiers-Saint-Marie.  Lunch today is a real sit down affair at a restaurant - delicous with a cold beer, then check in and shower.  A walk around town through all the ceramics shops for which Moustiers is known,  and the ceramics museum which is lovely ... and cool.  More walking,  must be time for a swim in the hotel pool.
Dinner on a terrace is a must in warm Moustiers with a stroll back to bed.  After sharing a room with Anna for the last two and a half weeks I am on my own. It seems a little weird. Anna's husband Ian has arrived to follow the ride's last few days by car. Ian had driven some of the route and marvels at our hill climbing prowess .. and rightly so.  This does not do justice to the hills,  but gives you an idea of how steep it is in town.