IN AND OUT OF DC AGAIN

Leaving Lancaster early we head back to DC to meet Lauren's son, Jonathan, and his partner Laura for a day's sightseeing.  We have two objectives, the first is the National Archives where The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution are, among a lot else, are on display.  As is the Magna Carta, not the 1415 one but a copy from 1497. Very impressive. No photos allowed anywhere inside. Outside is ok.

The second planned visit is to the Newseum, a museum devoted to records of events primarily in newspapers but with references to other media. It is a wonderful place, well worth a couple of hours at least passing through the various galleries. We have timed our visit to visit after the Pulitzer Prize photo gallery is reopened after refurbishment. The prize has been around since the 40s and all the photos are displayed. A selection are enlarged and a video of interviews with the photographers runs continuously. It is a real highlight - such memorable, evocative, affecting photos.
We still have time to catch something so on the way to the train we call into the Air and Space Museum so I can see the Starship Enterprise.  I thought the set was here, but just the model. Ah well. Sure there are planes, interactive displays, a heap of other things but we are just passing through.

We head off to meet up with our host for the night, Lauren's older son Christopher. Mexican tonight. That's it, a good night's sleep beckons before a visit to the Library of Congress in the morning. Wow, it is an amazing building. Truly beautiful, an Italianate marvel of colourful and decorative splendour and spacious.

 The Jefferson building is one of three on Capitol Hill and there are more repositories further away.
What is intriguing is that there is a significant crossover between the collections in a number of government institutions. There are no clear guidelines about where various artefacts and records are housed.  For example, the Library includes the contents of Abraham Lincoln's pockets on the night he died. The Smithsonian, The Archives and the Library all contain historic audio and video recordings. Presidential Papers are in the Library or in individual lubraries that each past President since Coolidge has set up. I would have thought them an archival record.

LANCASTER COUNTY

Heading out of DC to Gettysburg, site of a significant battle in the Civil War and site of the famous address by Lincoln. I had no idea really of the size of the battlefield nor really very much about the actual battle. Shortly after arriving there is a talk on medicine on the battlefield. This was interesting with audience participation wben a man volunteered to have his leg amputated.

Then we participated in a good bit of fun, a talk called Battle in a Box. Ropes were laid on the ground to mark roads, a creek and ridges on the battlefield. We were allocated various divisions of the two armies, shown by labels around our necks and our guide described the three days of battle by moving us around the field. It was a great idea, I for one got a much clearer idea of what unfolded.  It also made a great difference as Lauren and I drove around the field on a self guided tour. The monuments and sites we saw had a greater relevance for us. The drive was 24 miles long and all along the route are battle line markers, memorials to the various military units on both sides and State memorials. It is a lot to take in, I left feeling a little overwhelmed.
Over the past couple of days we have been in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. The county is known as Amish country, or Pennsylvania Dutch territory.  It isn't actually a Dutch but German background and a version of German, known colloquially as Pennsylvania Dutch, is still spoken by many in the area.  It is a beautiful region to ride around with much to see.
On our first full  day we drove into Lancaster to meet up with Stacey, who leads us out of town on one of her regular riding routes with stops at a local thrift shop, through a covered bridge or two and a dairy that sells very good ice-cream. Ice cream seems to be a staple of riding here, a good one.

We ride past, or are passed by, horse-drawn buggies which is the usual form of transport for the Amish community. They live without electricity or motors, dress simply and farm using old fashioned methods. That does not tell you everything about the life, but is what is most apparent to outsiders. Nor do I think I have finished learning.
Corn is being harvested and various farm implements are drawn by horses, aometimes one or a pair up to six wide. It is fascinating and I try to photograph them without upsetting anyone, as photos of faces are to be avoided.

That night we attend a community restaurant, where everyone is seated comunally at long tables and dinner is a set menu. The food just keeps coming, appetisers, followed by fried chicken, slow cooked pot roast beef, mashed potatoes, peas, corn and a local tradition - noodles in butter sauce. That is followed by cheesecake, cherry pie and another local speciality Shoofly pie. Ice cream is also offered. Will definitely have to work that off tomorrow.
And that is the plan. Lauren has our route worked out, starting with the Bird in Hand Farmers Market where there are plenty of samples and we buy lunch to eat a bit later. We also visit Witmers Quilts where we view some beautiful old quilts andcenjoy talking to the owner about them, and the newer quilts. There are some stunning intricate designs, one has over 1800 pieces in it!
I am not going to check the chronology, we saw a couple more quilt places (yes I bought some fabric, but not much), ate our lunch at the Bird in Hand Bakehouse which sells sweet baked goods, visited an old corn and flour mill and last stop at the Lapp Dairy for a small excellent ice-cream.
Back to the motel, shower and find a light dinner to offset the day's carb loading.
This has indeed been a great place to go riding, undulating hills, little towns dotted throughout and delicious food in abundance.  Only drawback is tourists ☺

Back to DC

Woke up this morning to the best email in years. Marlo is singing Happy Birthday to me .  I smile just to think of it.  Our train is due at 0930 and true to Amtrak form arrives at 1035. While we wait a freight train arrived, the engines disconnect  from the freight cars and drives off. Sometime later the engines plus one more come back and pick up the freight cars. Life on the tracks.

Uneventful train trip through pleasant greenery followed by industrial areas into Union Station. Quick lunch and a ride out to our Metro stop, train then a goid ride along the W&OD trail to Robyn's house and washing machine. We did a side trip to see the old shopping square in Herndon, with an obligatory stop at the Green Lizard bike shop for a good coffee. 

It is lobster month at Clyde's restaurant so of course Lauren and I are dining there tonight. Delicious. I apologise for no pictures of lobster bib wearing.
This day was made particularly easy by Robyn, who drove the luggage home, gave me a comfortable place to stay and has been fun to travel with. We thought me might catch up with our other fun fellow traveller, Leisa, at Union Station but that was not to be. Thanks, ladies, and goodbye, or rather I  hope au revoir.

GAP D5

This is our last day on this trip, and I have had a geat time travelling with Lauren, Robyn and Leisa.  And there is a 22mile downhill run, that's  right 35km! Maybe even a little more. To get to it we have to ride uphill. Oh well, not much to worry about there with more low gradients before we peak and cross the Continental Divide on Mt Savage. On our way down we pass rather contradictory signs reading "Game Reserve, No trespassing and no hunting. Mt Savage Sportsmens Club"

Then the Big Savage tunnel a little further on and crossing from Pennsylvania into Maryland across the Mason & Dixon Line.  Robyn and Leisa are driving to Frostburg, our lunch stop, which is a lovely thing as they buy our lunch and bring it to the trailhead saving us the trouble of riding the very steep hill into town from the trail.
But I have jumped ahead - I wanted to share the joy of breakfast at Donge's Drive-in Diner (since 1967). No longer a drive-in the diner has the original decor and atmosphere, is a family  business handed over to the current owner by her grandfather. The menu is a good range of breakfast and cheap.  Bottomless coffee and tea,  obviously frequented by locals. An older man asks us about ourselves, where are we from, where are we going, etc etc and tells us about himself. A real character who wishes us well as he leaves.  What a treat for a birthday breakfast.

So that's two meals down, a ride alongside a river for a while before we cross a bridge and move away from it. Between Frostburg and Cumberland, where the GAP trail ends our path is next to the Maryland Scenic Railway - right next to it. It would be unnervingly close if it weren't for the fact that no train is running today. It is currently weekends only, but in October it will run daily for people to view the autumn/fall foliage.  Lauren and I are going to hunt that down elsewhere.

So, Cumberland, and that's it. Mile 0. 

Our accommodation for the night is very comfortable, and the prosecco before dinner cold and refreshing. Just the thing to toast Leisa (who had a recent birthday), me on my birthday, Lauren for getting us all together and Robyn for her support and baggage transport.  It makes an enormous difference to a trip to not have to  constantly think about luggage and carry it all the time.
Final dinner in town sitting outside in the mall. Leisa should not have bopped along as the guy with the boom box went past before  checking him out.   She quickly grabbed her phone to her ear as he went past a second and third time.  We were warily amused. Dinner was good, we had thoroughly researched several menus before settling on City Lights and were very pleased with our choice. Good thing we had to walk back home.

All the President's Men is on TV, it still holds up well even if you do know the ending.

GAP D4

Another delicious full breakfast, a quick detour via the local bike shop and avoiding the rain we move out of Confluence feeling rested after the short run yesterday. You've got to admit there's nothing like a rest day.
Today is all climbing, but the gradients are so low to accomodate steam trains in the past that they are very manageable. The downside, if there can be a downside to an uphill climb, is that it is yet another day of steady pedalling.  That is nicely offset by our surroundings and coming across this ..

It may sound tedious to be riding through state forest day after day but NO, not at all.  The trees change, the light changes, the river changes, the towns vary and it is always interesting. Cyclists greet each other and when we stop and meet people we all compare notes.. Where are you going? Where have you ridden from? Where's home and much more. It's great.

Our destination today is Meyersdale and  our accommodation is at the Morguen Toole Company. Now you might think it was owned by someone named Morguen but you'd be wrong. It was actually a combined Morgue and Toole shop in a former life.  The building, which is maze like, is decorated with artefacts all sourced from the building itself so that coffin isn't just for Halloween.
It is a very comfortable hostel type place, with a bar and dining room.  No hauntings that we noticed. 

GAP D3

Back to the Ohiopyle House Cafe for sweet potato pancakes with blueberries and walnuts. Sadly they are disappointing, not enough flavour and lacking a little spice. I ate them all though.
We are booked in this morning to see Fallingwater, one of the houses in the are designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. It is amazing, a cantilevered house hanging over a waterfall. 

Wright incorporates natural elements into the design in a seamless fusion with construction. It is still a modern house nearly 80 years on. No air conditioning it is remarkably cool on a hot humid day. The other remarkable thing is the way the tourists are moved through. There is a new tour group starting about every 10 minutes. It is extraordinarily efficient as the tour groups don't cross each other's path and all of them fit into the limited available space. Nor do you come away feeling that you have been rushed through the house.  The grounds are beautiful, shaded, cool and with the sound of running water to enjoy.

After all that and lunch in Ohiopyle we clamber onto out trusty two-wheeled steeds for a ride of 11 miles to our next stop in Confluence. We have been closely watching the radar to see where the thunderstorms are in the region. Just one clear hour, thats all we need - and we get it. In fact we don't see any rain for the afternoon or evening. 

We have passed several people, local and touring, travelling in one direction or the other along the trail. It is good to see it so well used. All of the towns along the trail have fully embraced the cycling culture and most have a bike shop. That makes a nice change from some other trips I've been on.

GAP D2

West Newton to Ohiopyle.
Today is also off to a good start with a substantial breakfast of eggs, polenta, vegetables and bacon.  I have to constantly control myself, or try to, or I will be so sluggish on the bike that I wont get anywhere. It can be a fine line between nourishment and overeating ... I walk the line.
The weather isn't bad, we may see thunderstorms, we may not. (We don't ).  Humidity..ugh.
As soon as we leave town alongside the Youghiogheny River the trees protect us.  Not far out we pass a hunter with his gutted kill, it is a fawn, shot with a bow.  I don't know the rules about hunting here but would not expect them to allow such a young kill.  Further along we pass what we both think may be bear scat. Fortunately, no bears appear, just beautiful landscape and views

The country is again dotted with remnants and reminders of a past industrial life .. mining, processing, coke ovens, abandoned orchards and so on.  The forest appears to be reclaiming its territory by covering these with creepers and trees around.  The forest is lush, marvellously green and a delight in every direcrion. The river has changed its note with more shallow rapids and as we approach Ohiopyle we start to see more people on the water, kayaks and rubber dinghies.

Ohiopyle is an outdoors town - hiking, cycling, white water rafting, and more. We are going to dine at the Ohiopyle House cafe, it is just along the road from our lodging for the night and they have wifi.  That is very important as the house we are in does not.

GAP D1

Today we start on our trip along the Greater Allegheny Passage rail trail.  Lauren has worked out our itinerary and organised overnight accommodation. We are going to ride each day, Robyn and Leisa are going to drive to our destination and ride back to meet us. The trail is a compacted gravel surface and flat all the way. This is a mixed blessing, no hills to climb but also no respite from pedalling on a downhill.
Before we leave Pittsburgh however we detour to see Bike Heaven, a combined museum, repair and sales place. It is a highly decorative entrance in a parking lot.  Inside it is amazing, bikes as far as the eye can see of all sorts and sizes. Seats and various components in cases, on counters, and hanging from the ceiling. Heaven indeed for bikes. Greeted warmly, we are told there are more upstairs (and no responsibility is taken for injuries as one's jaw hits the floor). It did hit the floor.  An amazing number and variety.  Well worth the extra few miles.
Pittsburgh is an industrial town, and on our side of the river are reminders of that among newer residential developments.  On the other side they are still operating, newer buildings alongside rusty Dickensian structures.
We lunch in a shopping mall. These are not at all like malls at home. This one is made up of sprawling single storey shops stretching around the sides of a huge parking lot so you could find yourself perhaps driving from one end to another if you just wanted to go to a particular couple of shops. Lunch is good, I am starving.
Our ride today takes us past two closed amusement parks, one with a variety of water slides and the second a giant roller coaster. Are people no longer amused? Standing there giant and empty there seems no prospect of seeing them in action again. They look forlorn to say the least.
After lunch we start to leave the cities behind and travel through some very attractive green areas. A welcome relief and shady, justbwhat a rider needs on a hot and humid day. The trail is dotted with benches to sit and watch the river alongside and well maintained small camping spots with basic facilities. You could do a lot worse than take plenty of time along this ride if the rest is the same.
Our first night's  stop is West Newton, a small town among smaller towns along the trail.  B&Bs abound along the trail and we are off to a good start with Bob and MaryLou who have a nice small selection of cold beers with which to refresh after ruding in the sticky heat.

As we ride, and through the night we hear the whistle and rattle of long long freight trains passing through. Must count the cars sometime.

WASHINGTON AND VIRGINIA

Got on the plane, made a bit of a fool of myself as I immediately thought the announcement said the flight was to Dallas, then realised that while I keep thinking I am going to Washington I need to remember that I am flying into Dulles airport. Idiot.
It was a geat delight to be met by Lauren and stay with her friend, Robin - and her husband, Noah.  We are in Herndon, Virginia in a spacious green looking town but up close it is pretty dry. And hot, and humid.  My feet look forward to cooler weather and wearing my shoew without losing skin. That is not quite as bad as it sounds.
A very comfortable sleep and tacklenthe bike reassembly.  Takes a while but it does all go back together and survived pretty damned well. I will however need a small tin of touch up paint on my return.  Lauren very kindly drives me out to pick up the hard case I have ordered tontransport the bike in the future. First lunch, then a drive via the beautiful Great Falls (on the Maryland side). They look great too, though the water is low. It has not rained here for a month and tomorrow record high temperatures may be achieved.
With a warning like that air conditioned tourism is the order of the day.  Getting to the Metro train we park and traverse a large shopping mall. As we drive along Lauren points out purpose built areas of office blocks which form townships that later have residential areas developed around them. The highways are alive with traffic in all directions. The Smithsonian is really a misnomer as it is a vast collection housed in a variety of buildings which used to all fit along the mall but have spread out from there.  The latest is a Museum of African-American History that opens in a few days. We attend then enjoy lunch in the Museum of Native American History.  The food is a  far cry from the usual museum cafe fare.
Walking back to a couple of other spots we pass the White House, confirming that it is indeed smaller then one might expect. Never mind that we are moved back from the fence line temporarily with the rest of the hoy polloy - we have the opportunity to be excited by seeing god knows who driven in. I suppose it could have been one of the girls coming home from school, or someone else very important. We will never know for sure.
Back to the shops and I buy a pair of trousers as the only pair I brought with me are falling apart already. Damn.
Dinner, home, another good night's sleep.
Up today, a little more slowly than planned, but we take the bikes with us this time riding to the station and head towards the Memorials. Lincoln - tick, Vietnam Veterans - tick, Jefferson - tick, others - tick.  It is very impressive and on a wonderfully grand scale.  It is also much better weather for cycling. Leeisa, who is riding with us over the next few days has arrived in town and rides out to join us.  We gradually make our way to Union Station to catch our train to Pittsburgh but not bevore I have a look at the National Postal Museum which is in a beautiful building, a former post office, right next door.  Get something for dinner later, trek the miles it always seems to be to get to the actual train, load the bikes and settle back with the footrest up.
One thing about settling back on a train is that they don't go anywhere very fast.  I don't know if the length of the trains on curves slows them, if the times are worked out to accommodate multiple trains or something entirely different but it is a bit like being the tortoise racing the hare, portrayed by a car perhaps. It is not unenjoyable just a little frustrating when you are due at your destination in the middle of the night and wouldn't mind getting there earlier.  As I  type that the train speeds up hut we've been warned that there is somethingvamiss slowing it down so we'll be late. Sadly thst sums up my train travelling experience here.

GRAND FINALE

Good food found. Delicious dinner, bison chili for rob, rare eye fillet for me.  Local wine. All good. Thank you Arizona Room at the Bright Angel Lodge. 
Bright Angel Creek is so named to counter the creek found further upstream by John Wesley Powell which was murky and stank so he named it Dirty Devil Creek.  Must have been a relief to find fresher water downstream.
It's  funny on the last day anywhere when you think I should have seen .....   I had considered a helicopter ride, but they don't do that from the Southern Rim after a chopper and light plane head on crash some years ago.  We met Allan from Geelong who had done one and thought it was just as good from the rim so I feel better. We got a shuttle to the Imax to see the film there.  I don't like Imax and came out still not liking Imax but I do appreciate what is extraordinary about the filming. Amazing aerial footage.
Grand Canyon, like Uluru, is run completely by one company. They run all the hotels, campgrounds, shops, everything. They do a pretty good job, the shutle buses taking patrons fron one place to another are very good. All the drivers have tips for visitors,  are very welcoming, but the best is how frequently they move around.  A wonderful service.
All the gift shops are all the same but i domthink that applies more widely than the Grand Canyon.
Sadly we never saw a Californian Condor, not even in the Imax film, but it is good to know that they are there and the numbers are increasing.  On the other hand we saw dozens of squirrels and a few raccoons and Elk.  We were warned about engaging with wild life.. steer clear of Elk in fall/autumn as they are rutting, steer clear of raccoons as they can be aggressive, steer clear of squirrels as they bite, carry fleas and fleas carry bubonic plague.  Dire warnings, of which I took great notice.
Back on the vintage train to Williams, we are held up by the infamous Creek Gang.  Luckily there is a Marshall on hand to ensure that this ends happily for us and not for them. Great fun.  A brief sojourn in Williams for a buffet dinner before boarding the overnight train to LA. This time more in line with our regular sleeping hours. Phew.
UPDATE..Train now running 3+ hours late, Rob has changed his flight, good news is I won't be spending half the day hanging round the airport.

ATLANTA

My first impression on arrival towards midnight is that it is every bit as humid as I expected.  I don't like humidity but am prepared to put to with it. Fortunately my accom runs a shuttle to and from the airport which means that while I'm here I get a lift to the nearest train station each morning.
Breakfast is brief and I head to town.  I get off at the hub of the four local train lines and emerge to an empty street and a closed visitors' centre. This is not a good omen. Downloading an app of self guided walks should help but the app proves more trouble than its worth.
I head to the Martin Luther King history district and enjoy just walking around reading historic notes and stories on boards in the streets. 
The Falcons are playing at home, perhaps that explains it or the fact that it is 9/11. I have found a market that online looks good and lively but today a lot is closed.  Still a good burger to be had.
In a whim I head into Oakland cemetery just in time to join a tour. Very interesting and a history lesson to boot.  I cannot resist a beer in Six Feet Under over the road and set up at the bar among the football fans. Then two young men, Evelyn and Taylor, arrive. Take had had a fair bit to drink, Evelyn had just meet him s couple of blocks away.  Poor Taylor had just been dumped by his girlfriend of 2-3 months coinciding with being evicted from the last bar. He feels betrayed by her loyalty to her friend who was with them and whom T doesn't like so made a few disparaging remarks about.  But after three months she should have taken his side..... Evelyn and I murmur something suitable and move on to the Violent Femmes whom they are going to see that night. Taylor, impressed that I have seen them before, wants to buy me a ticket but I tactfully decline.
Another market on the walk back to town, this time lively and with delicious aromas.  So revived by good middle eastern food I drift home via the airport.
I have only two days here so pack up, get moving, check my baggage into the airport before breakfast and head to the visitor centre surprised that the train is so empty at what I thought would be peak hour.  This time the visitor centre is open but completely empty of patrons and staff. Just as I am about to leave armed with a map a woman arrives and confirms my plans.  The Capitol building and Margaret Mitchell's house. 
I have started carrying my keep (coffee) cup with me as a means of getting what may be considered an extra small coffee at 8oz.  En route to MM's place I pass, or rather don't pass but enter, an organic grocery with coffee and food.  The coffee was very good. I don't like to sound obsessed but I am pleased when it works out well. When I don't think it will I just have tea.
I had another look inside the bike box last night and it looks all right. I know you are not as anxious as I am that it arrives safely but I am sure you want to know that it does. Another day, another flight or two... Atlanta to Washington DC via Charlotte.  Wheeeeee

GRAND START

Contrary to the reviews of many the Amtrak train The Southwest Chief left town on time, with all our bags onboard safely in a luggage stow and not with us in our dear little roomette. Little being the operative word.  We expected nothing less.
Off on what Marlo call "an aventure", with only an hour at the most of daylight we sojourn in the lounge car viewing the industrial back yard of California until the sun sets and dinner is called. After that, bearing in mind we are getting off the train at 4 tomorrow morning I lower the top bunk and climb in. Surprisingly comfortable and that's that until our wake up call. On to the Grand Depot hotel for breakfast -2 1/2 hours away and nothing to see or so before it. No urn, no biscuit, just comfortable chairs in the lobby.
Breakfast, a wild west show and another train ... the Grand Canyon Railway travels at a leiaurely pace through prairie and forest with plenty of time to get great advice from Christina about waht to expect at the Canyon and a bit of a singalong with Cody. Straight off the train, quick lunch and we are on a bus tour along the rim. NOTHING PREPARES YOU FOR YOUR FIRST VIEW OF THE CANYON. WOW. Pictures do not do it justice, but I take plenty anyway. A highlight of the tour is seeing boats on the river at one lookout and catching them at the next in time to see them run some rapids.
Everyone thinks Grand Canyon think mules. Well think ahead as they are booked out months in advance. Fortunately we were never intending to do that trip.  We do take advantage of one of the free talks and now know just how good the Grand Canyon will be when the world as we know it ceases to exist. Ranger Luke has led us there. It will be hard to leave now.
I can't believe that I am planning another 4am start, will we never sleep in again?  Though getting up at a more normal time may hardly be considered sleeping in by many I do look forward to it.  Hilariously we are the only two takers on the sunrise tour, and sure we could have taken the free shuttle to the lookout but then we wouldn't have had Mark to entertain us.  Nor the delight of being able to sit in any of the 45 seats aboard our luxury coach. Front seats so we can see things and Mark needs no microphone.  Great fun.
Back with Ranger Luke for a little history walk this morning, Ranger Sarah this afternoon greatlyninformative about the Californian Condor. Sadly no sightings yet. Wifi could donwith some improvement, particularly as I seem to have no data coverage, but them's the breaks. Shortlived problem.
BEST thing here is no water is sold in bottles. Hop hip hooray. They sell reusable water bottles and provide plenty of filling stations.  Surprise surprise they had trouble with people tossing them into the canyon. Who'd have thought it possible?
Weather here is fabulous, views divine, food so far not so hot but good ice cream in the soda fountain. Off in search of an improvement this evening. 

LOS ANGELES

We were not really sure what to expect in LA.  We knew about Hollywood and that stars live here, probably in the hills but not too clise to the sign and that was about it.  Naturally, we arrived tired, took ages in line through border protection and finally located the carousel which our bags had been travelling on and joined the line for the prebooked shuttle to the motel. It seemed hours later, but in reality 45min and we were finally on our way. Got to the room, dumped everything, headed to the bar, downed a beer and crashed back in the room for an hour.
We are staying near The Grove (the largest open air mall in the US/Northern hemisphere/world. Cant remember which, perhaps all.  It is interesting, just shops and more shops, but at the end is the farmers market with a few produce stalls and lots of good looking food. Sadly the food area is closing as we arrive but we find a Greek place which serves us well. Then we crash for the night. 
I shall gloss over much of the next day as we spent too much time on a hop on hop off bus, along what I think must be the dullest route. Surely the others were more interesting.
However we ended up as we planned at LaBrea tar pits and museum which was very interesting indeed. I've never seen anything like it, asphalt seeping up through the ground reminiscent of the Beverley Hillbillies oil. 
Tour there, lunch at the nearby LACMA - Contemporary Art - and the first split. I continue in the fresh air and the fossil museum and Rob does modern art.  Unadventurous as we are we head back, ending up at the Grove to enjoy dinner and a beer at the Original Farmers Market. With any luck another good night's sleep and we'll be ready for real sightseeing.
YES.. check out, Uber to Union Station,dumpnthe bags forthe day and join a walking tour of downtown LA. The tour is led by Neil, who until recently worked as a CPA before starting the tours specialising in the downtown area. Very enjoyable tour, ending conveniently near the Grand Central market food hall. Another split, I head off the The Broad to enjoy the collection housed there and the Cindy Sherman photo exhibition.  Back to Union Station, detouring to go up to the 27th floor of the City Hall where there is a free viewing deck outside the rather impressive Tower Room.
Now waiting for the train...enjoying another pianist at the public piano in the plaza.