Sault to Peyruis

Thank goodness the Tour de France is going along our route in July because the road has been resurfaced and is perfect for riding on, smooth and fast.  This is a short day so a few more have tackled Mont Ventoux this morning heading up straight after breakfast. Another hot day forecast.
Morning coffee stop is in Banon, home to the seventh largest book store in France.  It is a good looking building and a rabbit warren of books inside - or so i am told as i did not go in.

I did go in to a local artisan boulangerie and enjoyed a very good quiche lorraine, and on a whim broke my own rule and bought a bag which reads "Bon comme un bon pain". I am grateful to Eli who very generously carries it for me to our destination. I definitely owe him a large beer when we get in.

We are now passing fields of lavender,  mostly in bud about to flower and are hopeful of flowers in bloom over the next few days.


Our ride ends with a beautiful descent en route to Peyruis with lunch by the side of the road justt near a hairpin bend which gives passers by a golden opportunity to gawk at us.  We are obviously enjoying ourselves as is our wont.

Today's hotel has two swimming pools .. we only use one.  Dinner has a lot of vegetables .. and pasta .. and salad so we really enjoy it.  Just about the best yet.  Vegetables and salads have not always been easy to come by.

Roadway encouragement

Fun on the road

Chateauneuf-du-Pape to Sault

There is nothing like a good rest for encouraging one to get back on the bike and off down the road again. Added to that is the prospect of a shorter day, even with the ride up what appears to be the inevitable gorge ... Gorge de la Nesque this time.  Discussion at the al fresco breakfast centres around who will, who might, and who has decided against riding Mont Ventoux. Our guides are going of course. Some may go this afternoon,  some may go in the morning. Either way there will be hot riding weather along the way and I am not coping well with that so I dip out.
The ride up and through the gorge is spectacular, with amazing vistas going on and on into the distance.  A wonderful ride.
And then we arrive at Sault where our host Antoine gives us a very warm welcome. Tons of riders, drivers and the occasional bus travel from Sault to the peak of Mont Ventoux which means Alex spends quite a bit of time hunting about for a parking spot before he can set up our lunch. Lunch was worth the wait as usual.
During the afternoon I say in the square outside our hotel and enjoyed a quiet nap in my chair,  waking to enjoy a beer with some of my fellow riders and cheer the arrival of our MtV  conquerors.  Dinner was also served in the square by our host,  now Chef Antoine,  delicious slow cooked beef followed by a desert cake made especially for our group. I thought i had a photo of it but cannot find it.  Damn

View up the Gorge de la Nesque

Not quite Van Gogh

Vallon Pont dArc to Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Took a long time to get here, but it is a beautiful place, and last nightnwe dined al fresco which is becoming a delightful habit. The weather continues unseasonably hot, though I  expect that it is actually the new seasonal weather and we will all have to admit it soon.
The third day with a substantial hill, this one at the start of the day up up and through the outstanding Gorges d'Ardeche.  Photographs don't always do justice to the realmthing, but I'll put one or two in.  At the top the ride along the ridge before the amazing descent is spectacular. 
Down we go to greet the Rhone, and our first sighting of the famous Mont Ventou.  Our ride over then next couple of days allow time for those so inclined to ride the Mont but I  am not so inclined in the heat.  In fact I  cut mynride short today, i think it is the cumulative effect of the last couple of days catching up and so I  get a lift into our destination. It is only 15, but the prospect of riding in no shade even that short way fills me with dread. All I want is a shower and a lie down.
Sadly for my host at the hotel I am not thrilled to discover that we have been given a king bed in lieu of twin beds,  and less thrilled when he seems to think that it isn't a problem that they have no twin room left.  It is not his suggestion but mine that the two beds forming the King be separated and they start again. In the end I state just bring us two sheets and we will sort it. Not an auspicious start. I sit by the pool and sleep instead.  The delicious meal served al fresco somewhat makes up for it and the delicious red at dinner. And the good breakfast also al fresco ... but his superior attitude still rankles a bit. It will in due course fade into the blur of good times.

The arc that gives Vallon Pont d'Arc its name

Gorgeous gorges

The Rhone

Estragyues to Mende, Mende to Vallon Pont d'Arc

These days are the toughest on the ride,  long rides (each over 120km) and uphill all the way.  I have to admit to a beautiful descent at the end of the second day but tough work to get there. 
The first day,  the third hill is a climb up the hill from Marvejols which is a killer.  At the top is a sign advising anyone going down that there are 3km at 10% gradient.  Knowing that is the mean, based on figures below and above that you get the picture. Steep. The road is covered with painted encouragement for former racers. ... Courage mon ❤, etc  One at the beginning reads 'Bienvenu a infer', Welcome to hell.
So here's a story from the road instead ...  it comes from a chapel we passed by a river.

Figeac to Estraygnues

Today was a wonderful ride. Up straight away from town into a high ridge ride, descent, up again over another hill with a glorious descent to the Lot River valley. We are going to follow the river for the rest of the day. The day is short, lunch will be by the river at our destination. It is the lull before the storm of the the next couple of days which have big climbs in them. That in itself is not a problem, it is the combination of hill and heat. I have harped on enough about the tour organiser not wanting to start the day early so will refrain from complaining again.
Riding by the river is relaxing, no rush to get anywhere, just enjoying the ride with coffee in a small town made in a machine one step up from those in the hotel breakfast rooms. The surroundings and shared experience make the quality of the coffee a lesser consideration - or I am getting used to bad coffee. Uh Oh , but I know it will all change with one good piccolo or flat white.  We come into town by the confluence of the Lot and Truyere rivers heading across the 13th century bridge tomour riverside lunch and hotel.
It is like a second rest day, this time by the pool.  I sat down in our room to do a couple of things before having a shower and immediately fell asleep.. I am well versed in resting. I woke, cleaned the road off and did my washing and headed poolside. 

Sarlat to Figeac, June15

This was a good riding day, but bit too hot and not quite enough shade towards the end.  Great climb in the morning, after riding alongside the Dordogne for a while, up to Rocamadour and a fantastic view .
Rolling hills along the ridge through farming lands, some pasture, some crops, and some forested stretches.  All this until lunch which was followed by one last hill up and over down into Figeac.
Rooftop pool was too hot to swim in, so a stroll to an outdoor restaurant was enough then an early night.  Good night 

The view from Rocomadour

La Vigeant to Brantome

Turn left out the hotel gate and go straight up that hill...what a heart starter. The forecast is another very warm day and the briefing indicates some hills coming up.  In fact, the day is pretty well all hills, not too steep but a couple of short sharp shocks and of course some good descents.
We will be passing the turn off to a meteorite crater today. I do mean passing as it would mean adding just a few kilometres over the daily total. I have already added a few Km by missing the morning coffee stop and in spite of already being at the top of the hill out of town I turn back to join my pals, have cofee and strawberry tart. I found out later that some others were refused the tart, perhaps I looked more deserving.

Back to the crater, though it is very wide it is just about completely eroded now I hear, so I settle for seeing the rock used in local construction.  When the meteorite hit it completely changed the rock surrounding the crater so it is a unique and therefore quite distinctive rock which somewhat resembles lava I saw in Oregon a couple of yeara back.

Arriving at the top of the hill for the second time, I am again struck by the spectacular panorama of farming scenery to the left including what I always think of as an Australian windmill. I know they are used elsewhere but it is from rural Australia that I know and love them.
Onwards, ever onwards... to Brantome. Built on an island the oldest part of town is delightful to walk through which we do on our way to dinner. It is a convenient way to check out the riverside restaurants and decide which of those open (it's Monday and several are not) is worthy of our custom. The preferred one seems reluctant to let us onto the terrace but as we three are willing to sit in the back corner we are welcomed at last. Fortunately for us very few patrons require the convenience at our backs and so we enjoy a delicious meal, cool and comfortable and with a lovely view.

Team photo

Just another chateau

Parthenay to Le Vigeant

Well, I know I wrote this day up and it seems to have completely disappeared.  let's see if i can remember it.
Parthenay was a pilgrim town and as we are on a classic riding journey we are perhaps pilgrims of sorts. Today's trip is very up and dow, rolling hills through farmland where the crops are in various stages. We see sunflowers planted and not yet anywhere near budding, let alone flowering. Barley seems to be the most common grain in the area, but we alsompass theough vegetable fields aplenty.
It a as a steady day of riding with a cafe stop late morning andna wayside lunch leaving us anshort 30km or so to get into the next overnight stop on the banks of the River Vienne.  This hotel is wonderful, motel type units so no stairs to lug bags up, a good swimming pool, sunny garden to dry washing and a good dinner to look forward to.
Having time to sit and read in the garden after a swim is a luxury for those of us who are usually well behind the riders who go very fast - that is those of us who make up the second sitting at lunch.  Naturally I am in the latter.  We all enjoy ourselves,  operating at our own pace.  I still wish we could get out earlier but there always seems to be a reason to do with the logistics have worked like this before.  Yes,  but was it so hot?  Ah well. .... the country is beautiful and the company good.

Late start

Breakfast and the briefing started the day at the usual time,  but a shorter day's ride allows time to see the Abbey next to the hotel.  Wow, it is wonderful. The cavernous spaces, the buildings, the gardens, everything.  There is enough on Wikipedia and travel advisor so I am not giving you the travelogue version here.  A highlight for us was coming across the audio setup for something, probably a wedding,  in a rear garden. The sound set to reflect from the abbey walls filled the space with a wonderful sound. Our hour long visit was certainly not enough, but the road calls.
A shorter ride is welcome after the first few days, but it still seems a longish way to coffee..will the cafe have shut for the lunch break? No, phew - and  there is shade. Good double, and as I enter fellow cyclists are ordering coffee in not bad French when the barman suddenly say in perfect English 'Would you mind closing the door behind you'. It is an absurdist moment as we go ahead mixing my poor French with his excellent English. Then an Englishwoman comes through another door and buys some coke. Stop this fun, get to lunch before sundown.
The best thing about the picnic lunches is the way the riders egg the guides on to top the previous day's picnic.  Alex and Tom alternate driving the van and getting lunch with riding each day.  They also excel at finding shady places, usually with trees, to dine under. Admittedly, they have been here before and there are notes but we appreciate it as if it were just for us and brand new.
On the road again, still long stretches mostly with little traffic. The scenery continues fine, the weather getting warmer. We areive in the former pilgrim town Parthenay to the least attractive hotel building so far, but the bed feels comfortable and their is air-conditioning so we can close the windows to shut out the noise of the city square below. It is not unpleasant noise of people enjoying themselves but sleep m is paramount.  The hotel does have an amusing sign on the door...

Loire Day

The Loire, conjuring images of rolling vineyards interspersed with Chateaux by the dozen. .. and today is the day.  We are going to ride along the river for most of the day moving closer then away until we end up in Fontevraud l'Abbaye for the night.
There is a great air of anticipation ,tempered a little by the long straight road ahead and the also anticipated heat of the day. Our riding takes us through farming land and woodlands and villages with historic churches and chateaux in sight, glimpsed through woods or not seen at all. A string of villages along the river proudly proclaim they are "sans pesticides". Good for them.
Great treat today at the cafe in Brissace-Quincé when I asked for a Cafe Crema (a double espresso with hot milk on the side) only to be asked if I  wanted a flat white or latte! Not only was it a good flat white but it had art on the top. Quelle surprise - you see how well I  speak the local language now.
We have a plan for lunch, by the local mushroom museum.  Wow. There are hundreds and hundreds of mushroom samples encased in resin and lots of information about the edible and the toxic ones, which I  won't remember. As I don't often go mushrooming I am reliant on my local supplier to have that sorted. Deeper and deeper into the cave I go, observing various methods of growing mushrooms. There are trays of experimental cultures and dozens of rectanular hangers resembling bird feeders in the Salle des Shitakes. Some of the 'shrooms are decidedly weird and it is cold down there (40Farenheit) so back to the warmth and the bike.
At the end of the ride our hotel is lovely,  right next to the Abbey that gives the town its name. It is too late to see it but tomorrow is a shorter ride so perhaps in the morning.  Roses abound and the scent is delightful - as it has been through several stretches of the ride.  Another day down,  another good beer,  a good dinner and a good sleep to look forward to. 

Long and straight

Today is a day of long straight flat roads through beautiful country and though it is a second day of headwinds it is not too hot, but warming up a bit. That is the Australian view, some others find it hotter.

Have I mentioned already that i am not a fan of flat riding? I like a bit of downhill , even if it means a bit of uphill, to give me a break from sitting in the saddle and pedalling. The countryside is beautiful  and the villages picturesque, though many surprisingly quiet, utterly devoid of people. No, it is not between noon and 2 so they are not all behind doors. The schools are full so the parents must be somewhere.

I do enjoy the boulangeries, patisseries and cafe bars where we are invited to bring our own food to their tables as they don't sell food. Good plan. Our planned picnic lunches have not yet eventuated due to the trouble with the van. Tom has delivered all our luggage to the night's destination then headed back to Saint Malo on the promise that the real van will be ready at the end of the day.

Almost at the end of our cycling day we come across the most wonderful chateau, the Chateau Plessis-mace.  The forecourt is being prepared for the Festival d'Anjou and the erected stage, seating and marquees mar the view but as it is closed to the public and we are allowed in we cannot complain really. It is a lovely almost end to the day. We rode the last few kilometres to the hotel,  grateful that we are on the ground floor and don't have to lug our bags upstairs - now that's a fitting end to a long ride.

The Tour of France begins

Everyone finally arrived for our introductory briefing and dinner. First the plane bringing some in was late, then the van broke down. Yes, the van that is to carry all our luggage. There is no way we can do it ourselves. Of course several taxis solve the problem by bringing first the people, then more bags and lastly the bikes in boxes. It will all be worked out one way or another in the morning.
Some people have ridden together before ( I am one of 6 who rode from end to end of the UK 2 years ago), many are meeting for the first time. The group includes 3 Australians, 2 New Zealanders, 8 English, 1 American. We are led by two guides, Tom and Alex. I look forward to getting to know more of them as we go along
Abandoning our luggage to Alex we head out as we are ready for the 110+km start. Wending or way out of St Malo is an exercise in mastering roundabouts from the "wrong" side of the road and it is a relief to hit the country stretch.
Today's ride is pretty flat, with some insulation. We are going to end up travelling SW which is where the wind comes from so yes we end up in a headwind.
In the meantime there is the coastal road, stretches of which are suitably named Rue du Bords de Mer and Rue du Littoral. Sounds more exotic than Beach Road. We see Mont St Michel in the hazy distance and I am sorry we​ didn't get there, and I'm not adding any kilometres to today's trip.
It is a good thing that the countryside, along the coast and inland as we turn from it, are beautiful as that distracts from the continuous pedaling along the flat. I shouldn't harp on about it as it really isn't too bad, there were some undulations through picturesque villages and along mostly empty country roads. Everywhere is green and wonderful to look at and our luggage does arrive at the hotel around 7pm just in time to change for dinner. We had filled in the time quite nicely with lengthy lunch stop in the sun at Fougeres then beer on the hotel verandah overlooking the sculpture garden.

London take 2

Back in town, with theatre tickets aplenty to see me through the week before we go to France.  First event is at The Globe, the Shakespeare theatre on the banks of the Thames..seeing Twelfth Night. This is a rowdier production than one may be used to with plenty of song and dance and I enjoy it thoroughly from perfect seats behind the pit of hoi polloi audience standing between us and the stage. Fortunately it does not rain as they would certainly get wet if that occurred.
I spend my last few days wandering or cycling around the place and my evenings in town. I saw a second Moliere play, though a modern adaption,  Don Juan in Soho with David Tennant wonderful in the title role. He is more than ably supported by Adrian Scarborough as his factotum Stan. I am so glad I went.
The same applies to the other shows, Our Ladies of Perpetual Succour and The Barbershop Chronicles. The first has already been to Melbourne and how did I not see it there? Perhaps I was not there. It is a musical about a group of teenage Scottish girls on a school outing to participate in a choir competition. That is how they get to Edinburgh but they have very different personal plans. As the night and the following day evolve so do the girls revealing themselves to the audience with raucous behaviour and deeper personal layers masked by it. I hope it comes back to Oz.
Finally the National Theatre production, The Barbershop Chronicles, performed in the round in the smallest theatre in the complex. I once more have a wonderful seat, first row of the circle with a full view of the stage floor below on which several barbers' chairs are set of and lots of chairs and couches surrounding the performance space.  The action moves between shops in London, Johannesburg, Harare, Kampala, Lagos and Accra. There is a connection between all, and the play looks at masculinity, relationships between men, between fathers and sons and atbthe political scenes in the various countries. The ensemble cast is top notch and i go home happy that I have seen all the plays I wanted to and not ended up with a dud anywhere.
I have spent almost my last full day in London with Terry, whom I have not seen for a few years. It is another good day, we meet at Waterloo and after coffee head for the John Soanes Museum which houses the architect's enormous collection of art, furniture and architectural pieces. Spread across three houses which he has built or modified to ensure light enters all the spaces are amazing buts from plaster samples of ancient architectural effects, through a collection of paintings which includes Hogarth's series The Rake's Progress to an alabaster sarcophagus which was wrapped in mattresses during WWII to protect it as it could not be moved. Then lunch in the park nearby, another small museum and talking over a cup of tea until I realise I have to rush off to make the theatre. A good ending.

Manor Farm

Almost every village I've been to in England,  this trip and the last,  has a Manor Farm - a reminder of a time long past.  This Manor Farm,  where I am staying with Lauren, is no longer a working farm but a house that gives three generations spaces of their own and yards of space to run around. This last is just as well as the children make full use of it, running in all directions as far and as fast as they can.

Lauren has a fairly full schedule planned but it doesn't include rushing around so I am in for a relaxing few days. The weather continues fine, with the exception of the occasional thunderstorm. We spent some time in the nearby township on market day. I wander around while Joshua and Lauren go to his swimming class, lunch at a very pleasing courtyard restaurant then time to collect Rose from school, which is breaking up for the half term break. 

We had a wonderful barbecue in the front yard that evening, leftovers the next. Great plan. The next day saw us heading into Norwich Cathedral just as the thunderstorm hit leaving us unaffected by it. We emerged to glorious sunshine and off to Pizza Express for lunch. Many years ago I had the Pizza Express cook book which stated that three toppings are all any pizza needs. They seem to have moved well on from that following the trend for jamming as much as possible on top, but I stick pretty close to the original rule. 

Lauren has saved the best until last.. a day at Bressingham Steam museum, not mentioning until we arrive that it also houses a Dad's Army exhibition. This is a permanent display of sets, vehicles and props from the television series. And they run the show continuously. 

Cannot stay too long as there are trains aplenty to ride. It is a great place, perfect weather for it and love the children's delight in it. My word we slept well that night. And then it's time to ride of to the train, but not without a quick return to get my camera left in the kitchen. 

In spite of the delay and missing my planned train I go ahead with a stopover in Ely to see the Cathedral there and Oliver Cromwell's house. So glad I did, both interesting, the Cathedral spectacular, the coffee in the market outstanding (went on the way out and the way back), interesting walk by the Riverside and still got the train back to London to meet Anna and Ian and go to the theatre.

Manor Farm

Font from former Nestle factory, once used for boiling caramels

Jonesie's butcher van