LEAVING DUBROVNIK

Relaxed breakfast, one last look around the room and we are off to the airport driving through a thunderstorm. Very encouraging I must say.

That passes, we get through everything and queue one last time at the head of the air bridge. No plane at the other end but we can see our luggage on a trolley on the tarmac, fortunately the rain seems to have stopped.. At last..a bus! We cross the tarmac get on the plane and fly off into the clouds.

The last few weeks have been quite a journey. The first couple of weeks seem quite frivolous when I look back on the second part of the tour.  I've probably already said that travelling through recent war zones can be very hard emotionally.  Travelling with, and meeting people who have lived through the wars in the countries involved gives one various perspectives on the history.  I don't claim to have become an expert overnight, the history is too complex for that. You would have to do some serious study before coming to grips with the scope and scale of the multiple conflicts.

We carry that experience with us to London where we land in mild cloudy weather and take our time getting sorted at the airport, coffee? Tick. Oyster card to get round on public transport? Tick. Found the train? Tick...  London here we come.

It is with great pleasure that we find our hotel is just a block away from Paddington station. Very handy.  It is with less delight that we find the size of our double room is akin to a cabin on the Southern Aurora (train with very small overnight cabins).  Ah well, we didn't book the most expensive room in London and Airbnb was going to cost more too.  [Suffice to say that we were able to move on our request the next morning into a twin room. It is still small but no more climbing over each other to pass the foot of the bed]

Can't wait to start seeing things so we go to Piccadilly and walk from there, Trafalgar Square, Whitehall, Pall Mall. Not quite all the Monopoly board, but a good start.

AFTERWARDS

Over breakfast those of us left agree to meet for dinner together.  I know it doesn't happen with all groups but I have enjoyed dining with everyone else on almost every night. It's been great fun findingout what others did and avoiding missing some great stuff too.

Rob and I head back to the Old Town which is now VERY crowded with cruise ship and other tourists.  We never align ourselves with them as we consider ourselves travellers. How quickly we turn into touring snobs.

Visiting an excellent exhibition of war photographs we are again moved by them. I realise that we have only glimpsed the wars from different perspectives and that we don't fully comprehend it - and may never do so.  One of our local guides said that we could read hundreds of books on the subject and may still not quite get our heads around it. It is hard looking at it from outside, and in such a short space of time.

After lunch we decide to get on a local bus to Cavtat,  about 30 min away. The day remains gloriously sunny and so a seaside village seems in order.  Can a seaside village be a resort town too? Yes! We have a cuppa overlooking the marina then walk to the cemetery to see the Racic mausoleum created by the famed Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović.  It is spectacular, beautiful and the cemetery has the best view of the ocean available.

We return to the centre of town via the old Franciscan Monastery, disappointed that the Rector's Palace which I had read about is closed.  We saunter past another marina at which is moored a huge boat, quite a contrast with the first one. This side also has more tourist shops and bars. All around the village in the surrounding hills is holiday accommodation in bulk so we appear to have come on a good day when it is not overcrowded.

Back on the bus, more fabulous ocean views and we join the others at dinner, walk back to the hotel and crash.

These are on the menu as "Noah's
Ark mussels". We never worked out why, but they were good to eat

LAST

Today we pile into our bus for our final destination .. Dubrovnik. It is a short trip so not even a stop for coffee. In direct contrast with the last month it is raining a bit today so the special tabular first view of the old city is marred by that. Still looks pretty good in spite of that,  and that we can only see it as we fly past as it is too dangerous to stop to take pictures.

Not bad .. through the bus window and light rain

 We dump our bags, get on a bus and head to town for coffee then a walk on the walls surrounding the old town. Dubrovnik was bombarded in 1991 by the Serbs and Montenegrins and much of the town damaged. It has been restored to such a great extent that the damage is not noticeable anywhere. The weather has improved a bit which makes the two and a half kilometre walk much more enjoyable.

It is interesting on both sides of the wall with views out to see and over the town outside the walls, but also to see what goes in inside the walls. Many people live inside the walls, attend high school, and as we saw play ball on a multi purpose court high above ground level. I heard that some people who own property inside let that and lice outside. I imagine it could be a bit of a strain at times with 1000s of tourists invading your space constantly.

We are of course in Kings Landing,  the heart of Game of Thrones territory. Having decided not to do the GoT tour we are nonetheless amused to hear where some scenes took place.  Especially when someone else's guide points out where a pivotal scene occurred, then goes on to explain that much of it is actually shot elsewhere and what was sit here had so much set dressing it is almost unrecognisable on the screen.  They were lapping it up and I think a couple of them would have re-enacted it given half a chance.

More wandering,  back to the hotel to check in and then dinner together for the last time. Tomorrow the group starts to break up as we head in different directions.  Dinner is under the city walls sitting by the sea - an excellent choice, Milan, as usual. Fish was a good recommendation too.

There are a few things I really don't like about this hotel. Only one power point in the room, one in the bathroom which needs the light kept on to power it. WiFi is dreadful, constantly dropping out,  but worst of all is the very loud party of young men drinking in the late afternoon and making enough noise for the staff to come and see if it is a brawl.  Enough to make me think about moving out,  if only I could get on the Internet to find somewhere else. Will reserve judgement until the morning.

DIZZYING HEIGHTS

Up and at 'em this morning. I've decided to climb to St John's fortress overlooking the old town. It will be warm, so an early start is in order, nothing too early though. Breakfast first. Kotor is stunning, the area around the fjord is all part of a UNESCO heritage area with villages and buildings going back centuries. It is a popular destination for cruise ships and there are two in sight today large enough to block your view.

 It means also that the old town will be crowded. I see a dozen buses taking people from the ships out of town for the day, but they keep on coming in droves.

Fortunately as I climb the sun doesn't yet come over the rise and I climb uneven steps or a rock path for around 45 minutes,  pausing briefly to admire the view.

It feels like a million miles up and then I hear someone say there's another 1200metres more.  I thankfully cannot see it though as I am at the end of the path.  The photo doesn't quite tell how grand it is below, how far you can see, how blue the water is, but it will do .... Just imagine everything sparkling.

I encounter a fair number going up as I come down and finally meet Rob for a recuperative cup of coffee, wander around a while, avoid the crowds by walking to a place out of town for lunch then meet up with the rest of our gang dockside for a boat trip to a special island. We observe crowds returning to the boats, looking like lemmings on the wharves. 

Our guide on the boat gives us a potted history of the area as we putter around ending up on a man made island with a church on it.  The story is that in the 15th century fisherman found a Madonna and Child icon on rocks here so they built an island and church on the spot, starting with sinking a dozen ships filled with rocks as a base then topped it up by hurling rocks each time they returned from a voyage.  This still goes on .. Our Lady of the Rocks

There are all sorts of tributes there, none so fascinating as this embroidery made over 20 years by a woman waiting for her husband to return. She has used gold and silver threads along with her own hair. They say you can see the changing colour over the years she worked in the hair of the angels around the Madonna and Child. You cannot see it but take my word for it, the stitching is extremely fine and dense. It is a remarkable thing to behold. The maker left it to the church alongwith her original sketches when she died. 

Locals still commemorate the discovery of the icon each year in late July when they all throw rocks into the sea around the island.  And sailors still bring tributes of thanks to the church when they have survived a storm or some other incident at sea.  Brides who are married in the Church also leave tributes - the collection is one of the most eclectic collections I have ever seen. 

WATER, WATER EVERYWHERE

A rest day, but first a morning on the road.  This last part of our trip seems to involve a lot of travelling.  Well,  that is what we came for. We are heading for the hills, a welcome respite from the war torn cities,  to spend the night by a river at a rafting camp. Though no one is going rafting, for one thing we are not insured, for another we don't feel that energetic.

One again we travel by private bus through spectacular scenery, stopping along the way at a service station for the obligatory lavatory and coffee stop.  Another border crossing,  into Montenegro this time and a return to euros.  My head spins when I think how many currencies I have used over the last week or so.

The camp reminded me of Licola, basic huts and great location by a river in the middle of nowhere. There was a bar at the camp and dinner provided but that was pretty much it.  When the thunder arrived and the rain there was not much to do but sleep in the afternoon before we sat around over s bottle or two of wine enjoying our surroundings.  The rain stopped but we stayed put. Fresh trout for dinner and crepes. Yum.

Breakfast early and into the bus to head for Kotor with a hike to a monastery on the way.   We are held up after an accident in a tunnel.  We have no idea how long we are held up so or driver takes us back into the last town we passed through to a local restaurant he recommends.  When we arrive we hear that the (slow cooked) lamb under the bell (over coals under cover) is just ready so of course we order that with potatoes and salad.  Lunch at 1030 seems just right after an early start. It was fantastic.

When we set off again and get to the stay of the club to the monastery we area all glad that we have sustained ourselves so well before we tackle the hill.   This is no ordinary monastery as it houses the remains of St Basil,  whose body is said to be unchanged since it was buried As it lies beneath a cloth we couldn't price or dispute this. It was all very very interesting to say the least.

Back in the bus, on to Kotor just in time to freshen up then walk to dinner by the water's edge.  After dinner we walk into the old town so that Milan can point out where to go in the morning to climb the walls to the fort, where the best money exchange rate is to be found,  where the ATMs are and a couple of other important bits before we fall into bed to the sounds of the party music (aka doof doof) from nearby.  Nothing keeps us awake.   Good night.

OLD BRIDGE

Mostar is three hours by train from Sarajevo along one of the most scenic routes in Europe. Mountains,  snow, lakes, dams, hydro power plants, more of all of those - and Mostar is scared by way,  the Bosniak-Croat war of the early 90s.   The greatest feature of Mostar is the old bridge,  at the time of its building the longest single span arch in the world.  It doesn't carry traffic,  let alone tanks so there was no apparent reason or advsntsge when Croatian tanks bombarded and destroyed the bridge.  Not their finest moment.

10 years later the bridge was rebuilt using the original plans,  and often the origins methods.  The nearby museum had a documentary running about the reconstruction which details the building and is fascinating.  26 stonemasons,  many ingenuous Springs to problems that may have been encountered in the original construction.. A thing of beauty.

The train journey was three hours long,  but we return by private bus which only takes a little under two.   A lot of time during down,  but we'll worth the trip.

Our final night here so we saunter into town,  wander about the old town in search of a particular map that Rob is after.. Takes a while, but we have time and success.  It had on the reverse side a chronological last of events during the wars at the end of last century in the Balkans that end in the independence of the various entities that were formerly Jugoslavia. Perhaps we can finally get our heads around it.

Light dinner watching the world go by,  then adieu Sarajevo.

WAR

Mohammed collects us after breakfast and we pile into the mini bus for the “Tour of Misfortunes". Misfortunes is an understatement. This morning we are touring war sites, and hearing more of life between 1992 and 1995. Riding in a minibus we pass buildings still pockmarked by shells, buildings waiting refurbishment, an old people's home building left as it is after being destroyed, the Holiday Inn and more.

Buildings that have been restored and rebuilt are also pointed out.  Life during the siege is ever present naturally in life here today - a physical and emotional presence.  Arriving at an ordinary house in the suburbs near the airport we are surprised to see a few tourist busloads ahead of us. The tunnel under the airport was the only way in and out of the city during the siege.  Hearing the background while looking at a map is like listening to a story with a large hole in the plot.  No one seems to know why exactly the Serbs agreed to give up the airport to the UN when they had encircled the town.

The story of the Tunnel of life, tunnel of hope, was a lifeline to the outside world. The Museum includes videos of newsreel footage during the siege and about the

tunnel construction and use, which show is construction and conditions in the wet which made it very risky as high voltage electricity lines ran through it after a while.   The Serbs knew about it but apparently never located it accurately.

As we return to the city itself Mohammed brings us back to the present and finished the tour up a road that he days gives the name 'Balkan Adventure' to our Intrepid tour.  A car comes towards us and we see for ourselves..  the road we are on is very narrow. Very. The view of the city from up there is worth it.

Coming down and after the tour is officially over,  Mohammed invited us to join him at the best place to have Cevapcici, and I don't need asking twice.  I love these little skinless sausages. They were the best I've had yet and we follow that up with a visit to the bar at the Sarajevo Brewery bar for a pint or two. Everywhere we go beer is taken seriously and food is delicious.. so when in Rome......

Rob and I saunter through the old town getting back to our pension in time for the cooking lesson - a hands on lesson in stuffing vegetables with a spiced meat and rice mixture.  We excel at this, and not long after we enjoy the fruits of the previous group's labour (a form of here's one I prepared earlier).

After dinner I repair to our room to catch up on some reading.  I thought about going for a walk but enjoyed the book so much I didn't.  I recommend it to you.. Robert Dinsdale's GINGERBREAD.

BUS, BUS, BUS

Our longest bus ride is ahead of us.  We are grateful to Milan for getting us an 0800 start instead of 0545. We travel in a private bus leaving Serbia,  entering Bosnia and over the range to Sarajevo.

This is a sheep slowly cooking over coals outside a restaurant, it smelt so delicious I can't begin to tell you. Very tempting.
 

Sarajevo,  as everyone knows  was besieged by Serbia for three and a half years and we see evidence of it in all the villages as we come into town.   Like Osijek a lot of the original buildings have been rebuilt and others psyched up.  We take a walk around town with local guide,  Mohammed,  who talks about the determination of the Sarajevans not to give in during the siege.  He was at school during the war and describes going to school in one of the larger shelters, where music and theatre performances also took place as part of a demonstration that life would go on as close to usual as possible. 

Life has improved,  but was hard for a long time. Bosnians have a dry sense of humour and are inclined to laugh in all circumstances,  even war. Mohammed regales us with stories that do make us laugh,  and I'm sorry I don't recall the jokes. We started our tour with s stop at the best burek seller in the town and finished the walk with a promise of more good food tomorrow when we will see him for the "Tour of Misfortunes".  We were taken to a delightful restaurant where I can assure you the stuffed eggplant and local beer were excellent. 

But wait,  there's more....  Best baklava shop in Sarajevo.  More varieties than I've seen at home,  never had a plum version but will again.  Not a dry pastry to be seen.  

Wall fresco with shell hole 

RIVER CITY

Today rain is forecast but it is only a 20% chance so we head for town to get breakfast. We sit out the morning rain doing two of the three things Serbians do.. coffee and watching the world go by. We refrain from smoking though they do not hold back, outside or in which comes as a surprise.
Strolling through streets a little away from the busy main streets I start to feel better about Belgrade.  The buildings still look grimy,  the paths are washed somewhat @aacleaner by the rain and the streets are tree lined which softens them.
The Nikola Tesla Museum is intrresting, no public loo, the temporary exhibition advertised isn't ready and we just missed sa tour - an opportunity for coffee and a bite to eat.

Returning to the Museum we enjoy the tour,  the demonstrations of his machines and the now open temporary exhibition which had filled up time nicely.  Time to saunter to the dock to the river cruise.

This was fun,  a beer inboard,  very little commentary, an interesting view of the city.   We had passed some riverside restaurants on our way along the dock and, inviting a couple from our group who did the cruise, we settle on one and thoroughly enjoy a break from goulash devouring some very good pizza.
By chance our leader,  Milan,  is in another restaurant nearby and he tells us that tourists haven't discovered these new restaurants yet - just locals around us.  iv feel ever so slightly smug. Good thing we have a walk home to digest dinner.

BELGRADE TRAIN

This morning is free in Novi Sad,  time to walk after breakfast with J&F, our Canadian companions, to the Citadel overlooking the city before a quick shopping run to buy food to have on the train

We follow the signs up to the Citadel and meander bit following an informal but we'll worn footpath which lands us in the moat. J does a recce and we are back on track.

I took this just in case it was the last we ever saw of him.

There wasn't as much as we expected at the Citadel,  but we may have been to early for all the artists who have studios and galleries there to have got going.  Big hotel,  small city museum,  lots of souvenir sellers and great views of the city.

Or,  as J said "another elbow in the Danube ".  Then back to town to correct Rob and head to coffee.   And the train.

The train sort of leaves on time,  it is covered in street artist autographs, tags,  graffiti,.... As are all the carriages on this and other trains in sight.

The state of the windows left a little to be desired. But we could see enough to know where we were.  We travelled across the last bridge and into the main station at snail's pace due to the condition of the tracks (I heard later they were built by the Germans at the end of WWII but I don't know if that is significant).  Fortunately the hotel was right by the station.
Spent the rest of the day walking

round town led by the delightful Bojana, an erudite, amusing, charming, fascinating person who regaled us with tales about her city over the decades before letting us loose for dinner at  a kavana (Turkish influenced coffee house)  some few centuries old which serves delicious food.  She was right - it certainly does. It is called ? because an earlier owner didn't know at the time what to call it.  Very cool.

BORDERS

Another day,  another country.  We leave Croatia today and head to Serbia.  As if to highlight that fact on the way we visit Vukovar  the most heavily damaged town in the most recent war, enduring a 90 day booming blitz before it fell.

We visited a hospital museum,  a hospital from which 261 wounded were taken, tortured, killed and buried in a mass grave on the day the city fell. We stopped at a local market for a coffee and borek or similar to recover a bit before going on.

This is the top of the Vukovar water tower that was damaged during the blitz.  It is left unrepaired as a reminder of the war.  A stark reminder.  Our final visit in Vukovar I'd to the mass grave memorial  where the wounded taken from the hospital were tortured and shot in a hangar which formerly housed farming equipment.  

This is what greeted us on arrival, but we soon made our way inside to hear what had happened there and how it is commemorated.  The floor is made up of concrete and shell casings, there are artefacts and portraits of those who died but most poignant of all is the never-ending spiral of names around an eternal candle flame.

Then over the border, which has two checkpoints - one for Croatia, one for Serbia.  Once across the border it is surprising that, unlike its Croatian counterpart, the houses in the border village appear untouched.  There was no retaliation during the blitz as the Croatians were given no government support - no weapons.

As a contrast to the morning we spent the rest of the day sampling wines, first in an old winery in Croatia then after the border crossing and checking into our hotel at a bee museum near Novi Sad. Fascinating to hear the history of the hives and the winery, and to taste the various wines including the herbal medicinal dessert wines.

2000 reisling bottles just waiting for us 

Good sleep in order after all that.

ORGANICS

Glorious sunshine again. I cannot credit how good the weather has been and am grateful for it.

Our current accommodation,  Maksimilian Guest House is wonderful and if you get to Osijek be sure to stay here in the spacious comfortable surroundings.  I haven't seen the attic rooms but we have two rooms and a bathroom.. Such luxury.

And the best was yet to come.  Our host's father in law provided our additional transport today as we didn't all fit in the van.

We took turns riding in this classic 1970 Mercedes and loved it.  Flag's flying, waving to the cheering hordes, such a treat.  Straight to the prestigious Lippizana farm which was also wonderful. Onto the local cathedral,  then borek and coffee under umbrellas in the main street, noting the stork nest in a chimney at the end of the street.

A real highlight after dropping in to Tito's Villa in the nearby Park (stripped bare at the end of the war)  was having lunch and a tour of a local organic farm. Goran started the farm seven years ago on land that had lain idle for many years and everything they produce is delicious.  While we enjoyed seeing all these dear little pigl et ts running around having a good time,  we also enjoyed some of the best pork stew and salamis that I have ever had.  Even the grain for the wonderful trading bread was grown onsite. Fantastic, and good wine too.

A nap after that and a walk to a late dinner at a floating restaurant capped off another good day.

IDIOT

My (electronic)  tablet remained on the bus when we arrived in Osijek.  Fortunately it was a private bus, which was so comfortable I was soundly asleep when we arrived and that's how it happened.  It has been found, back in Budapest, so will be returned to me which is a great relief.

It hasn't stopped me enjoying myself.  We are staying in a delightful guest house in an interesting town and taken on a walk around by a local guide, Igor.

Osijek was a war zone,  which Igor lived in until he was evacuated with his brother and other school children to Slovakia. He describes the conditions and physical and emotional impact on the town and is inhabitants matter-of-factly but there is no doubt it still lies just below the surface of life here.

Some damaged houses are left untouched since the end of the war, sometimes because the owner walked away and not returned for a number of reasons. The same with some other bigger buildings, but there are plenty that have been repaired/restored and put to good use...  For example,  former military barracks have been handed over to schools,  etc .

This seems to be a very relaxed place now,  spacious streets,  lots of cafe /bars where everyone enjoys sitting around chatting.  Another good restaurant for dinner,  fish stew,  venison stew and surprise surprise...  potato pasta. Will I spontaneously combustion if I say that I am a little goulash out?

Home to do washing before good comfortable  sleep.

LAST DAY IN BUDAPEST

Cycling along the Danube appealed to me so today I hired a bike and rode out to Szentendre (St Andrew) about 25Km away.  I picked a windy day but made good time outbound.  Bike is a steel frame women's tourer with 700x40 tyres on it. Heavier than I am used to, but fine to ride.

 I hope you can read the name of this coffee stop, just in case it is too small it is THIS IS MELBOURNE TOO.  Quick u-turn of course, and I don't know who was more excited, me to see the words piccolo latte or them to find out I came from Melbourne.  The coffee was good, they gave me the cake gratis and we all had a good time talking.

The ride went on and I only took one wrong turn, ending up in a very suburban shopping area surrounded by rows of blocks of flats.  Got myself back on track riding through a much more expensive area, then swampy forest and a dirt track and onto St Andrew or Szentendre. 
This is a popular destination full of tourist shops and restaurants but I had a very good pork shaslick with grilled vegetables cooked in the middle of the street washed down with the obligatory beer.

I have seen some odd things by the path as I ride around over the years but this missile or whatever it is takes the cake. The photo was taken as discreetly as I could as I thought the guard in the watch tower might object to me stopping and getting out my camera.  Bottom right corner.

Coming home thought I would take the direct route along the river, and spent a bit of time just following other riders who were more used to the path. When one woman turned right away from the river I should have followed as I then rode into a crowded area of cafes, bars, etc on the waterfront.  That, coupled with a strong cross wind, made me very late getting in. Just time for a quick shower and a cab to the premium wine tasting.

Six small glasses and three small scones later the four of us headed into town to yet another delicious dinner in a restaurant of our former leader, David's, choosing. Good choice, heavenly slow cooked lamb shoulder on potato pancakes.  Walk back to the hotel, farewell to J and L, and that's it for Budapest. Off on the bus tomorrow.  One last glimpse of underground Budapest though as we saw these guys on the way to dinner.

COUPLE OF DAYS IN BUDAPEST

Budapest is the most comfortable city so far, I think.  It has such a wonderful lived in feeling about it. Sure there are tourists galore, but nowhere near as crowded as some of the other places we have been where we seemed to be walking round groups with matching headsets in following someone with a folded umbrella or equiv held aloft. Of course we are a small group following our leader, small enough not to require a marker.

The castle looms large on the horizon overlooking the river.  It is impossible to imagine the cities on either side not being connected by a bridge, as it is to imagine the loony king jumping on his horse from one ice block to another to cross.  Today the grounds are being filled with small wooden stalls as there is a festival of bread there this weekend.

Bogata, our cycling leader, is very informative and very generously takes her time with us.  We took a while longer than we anticipated,  having a great time cruising along, stopping at various sites and learning not just the physical history but also the background and political history. Those experiences so very very far removed from not just mine, but Australian experience at large.  We finish in a very cool retro beer garden in the city park, which we enjoy so well that Bogata gives us an encore in a second one. Great trip all round.

This building is the former Hungarian  NazI headquarters during WWII which then became the headquarters of the Hungarian secret police under Communist rule.  It is known as the House of Terror and now houses a very moving museum remembering those regimes and what went on in the building. Rob and I are very glad we followed up on the advice that we should not miss it.

Friday night, our last night with the current tour group, we head up to Gellert Hill after dinner. The view is wonderful, the city laid out like fairyland below us. A fitting end - L taking night shots, having a drink, seeing a wild hedgehog, walking down through the hill park by the light of our phones,  back across the river, through the city to fall into bed worn out.

Saturday at breakfast we farewell our fellow travellers and have a very cruisy day drifting around town, seeing the city market and a marvellous building Mai Mano Haz.  This housed a nightclub in the past and is one of the most beautiful buildings I have seen. Today it houses a stunning photographic exhibition by a photographer neither of us knew by name..Sylvia Plachy.  She had a column in the Village Voice for many years which was an uncaptioned photograph chronicling life in New York.  Every picture in this exhibition contains an entire story. We are so glad we saw it.  And it led us to a dance festival in a nearby square where everyone was having a great time. That is always infectious so we obviously did too.

More pictures to see at my Flickr photos

BUS TO BUDAPEST

Sunshine abounds this morning and as we travel to Budapest in our private minibus the view of the mountains in the clear air are spectacular.  We have a few warm days to look forward to.  And we do look forward to them.

Budapest is a change over for us. One of our group, T, is going on with us to Dubrovnik but the rest are going their separate ways. Our leader, Dave, will also leave and Rob and I will set off from  here with new companions.

In the meantime we roll along, stopping for a break here, a restaurant that bears a striking resemblance to a hunting lodge.  There is a huge fireplace in the middle inside, all the furniture and fittings are made from the same timber as the walls -  and that includes the menu spines - with walls laden with hunting gear and trophies.  The coffee is dreadful,  but the teabag just fine.

The longest part of the trip is in Budapest itself, city traffic slows us down. By now we are a little keen to get our backsides off the no longer padded seats of the bus, but spirits still high.  Very fast turnaround on arrival, dump our bags and Dave takes us to a very cool place to eat. My word they make good food over here, that is not just today but everywhere we have been so far. I hope that keeps up.

I am not a huge fan of ice cream lately, but when it looks like this it is very appealing.  This is a chilli chocolate, raspberry and salty caramel delight.  I enjoyed every morsel.  The shop is renowned and the queue must stretch a long way in the height of summer as it was stretching outside the shop today.  Well worth the wait.

First impressions of Budapest .. clean, busy, shabby chic, noisy - that was mainly due to a protest at a city intersection against the banks foreclosing on loans that people can no longer afford to pay rendering them homeless.

After another wonderful meal we decide to go and have a look at a "ruins" bar, one of the first in the city.  This is where a vacant crumbly building has been taken over, decorated and lit haphazardly, and set up as a bar, part outdoor part in.

RAIN ON HIGH

The weather forecast wasn't great for later in the day but we were confident that we would make it to lunch up high be for the weather closed in.  We took a little shuttle train a few villages over then a funicular train up the mountain.  We were to walk a well worn path up and across the face of the mountain to a chair lift base overlooking Tatraska Lomnica where we had come from.

 When I say well worn path I don't mean perfectly smooth and easy to walk. Well marked certainly but most of the path is rocky and you need to look at where you are going. This meant that every now and again lift g your head meant that you caught some magnificent views of valley, towns in the distance and sky.  We passed several walkers,  travelling in both directions,  passed magnificent fast running water and walked across ice and snow to arrive just in time for lunch. Just as we arrived the weather started to close in, but didn't start raining until two chair lift rides later we were safely back in town.

Thunderstorms ensued, so we stayed indoors, and like many thunderstorms, short lived.  The rain stayed but only a light drizzle so e ventured outside after Dinner to watch an ice hockey game (Slovakia v Norway) at a local pub.  I didn't stay to the end so can't tell you the result. If only I had some way of finding  out.  Oh wait, I do .... Norway 3 d Slovakia 2. Probably just as well to have left at 2 all.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN

Two roads today, first a walking tour of Krakow,  then on a bus to the Tatra Mountains.   Fortunately for us the walking tour was not a repeat of things we had learnt on the cycling tour or just walking around.  John, our guide, is an American who has lived here for many years. There seem to be quite a few of those people around the towns we have seen. Makes it easier for English speaking tourists.

We walked past the dragon statue I saw yesterday and I learnt the story - dragon in cave eating virgins, king offers daughter to dragon slayer, smart impoverished suitor defeats dragon, gets the girl, becomes king. Never heard that one before! I am sure you can see the gas in the pic ... at least if you look extremely closely you can make out the wave effect that blurs the fence behind. Otherwise just take my word for it, the dragon breathes fire.

We then walked into the old Jewish quarter, the Kazimierz,  named for the Polish king who invited the Jews to live here in the 1400s when they were being persecuted elsewhere. They moved in next to Catholics so the area also has a blend of synagogues and churches.

It is no longer a Jewish residential area, so very many died during the war or didn't come back after. it is however a fairly arty,  bohemian area with many cafes,  this seems appropriate.  From there we walk across the river to the ghetto area, which has a very different feel.  The buildings are often shabby with graffiti everywhere. 90% of the local graffiti reflects support for one of the two local football teams, often anti semitic,  and accuratly reflecting the threatening behaviour that goes on at derby matches.  Most of the area is public housing, John tells us this is because no one feels comfortable buying a flat here and doing it up. It seems wrong when the property has the history of personal suffering that it carries into today.

After the walk just time for lunch and then off on the local bus headed for the mountains. We caught glimpses of our destination, the High Tatras. We change over to a private bus and on again. We expect cold weather,  and are surprised to find it very mild when we get out for a quick photo stop.

A quick walk around the essentials in Tatraska Lomnica took a few minutes, delicious dinner and a restful night ahead. It is interesting how many words one has to learn to describe dumplings. We have mastered them all.